https://www.sellmyretro.com/offer/details/ddi4-disk-interface-for-cpc464-32790 (https://www.sellmyretro.com/offer/details/ddi4-disk-interface-for-cpc464-32790)
Already seen this one? I haven't!
I assume that this is an existing interface that has been upgraded?
It it contains Revaldhinos RAM expansion, then it would be fine ;) :)
Quote from: ComSoft6128 on 17:21, 06 December 18
I assume that this is an existing interface that has been upgraded?
And added the expansion port edge connector passthrough
It's Zaxxons DDI-3 in a box with an edge connector added.
Bryce.
Not having anywhere near the knowledge of the the Bryce master, and with ulimate respect, and I can't believe I'm even correcting him, but the DDI4 is not a DDI-3, it is a disk interface only. A floppy drive or USB emulator is still required:
https://www.sellmyretro.com/offer/details/32790 (https://www.sellmyretro.com/offer/details/32790).
p.s. please forgive me Bryce :(
Ah, so it's a DDI-3 without the drive.
Bryce.
It is effectively a DDI-1 with a pass through. Quite clever piece of kit. A few people on the CPC Facebook groups were not sure of its purpose either.
Well, time to correct you both, master and servant :laugh: Forgive me that joke, it's Friday ;) :)
Aside of the DDI-1 features it has:
- 512 KB RAM
- ABBA switch for swap drives
- Reset button
- PARADOS 1.2 and AMSDOS can be selected by a switch
TGIF (not a feature, just a temporary state)
Quote from: simondo on 11:12, 07 December 18
It is effectively a DDI-1 with a pass through. Quite clever piece of kit. A few people on the CPC Facebook groups were not sure of its purpose either.
I guess it is a modern version of the DDI-1 Clone Useful if you want to connect a Gotek (and a 3.5" Floppy or the like) to the CPC.
I could use one for sure - especially the expansion port passthrough is also very useful. Without such a device, I have to use my DDI-1 at the end of the MotherX4 (or LambdaBoard), which can be challenging electrically. Also, DDI-1 does NOT work at the end of the MotherX4 without removing the diodes (one of the reasons I made the LambdaBoard, without diodes, and with expansion port passthrough at the end - with that, I would no longer need the LambdaBoard). Not everybody can do that. So to me this is very useful device.
Would be good is the mem exp. could be disabled though....
Quote from: simondo on 11:12, 07 December 18
It is effectively a DDI-1 with a pass through. Quite clever piece of kit. A few people on the CPC Facebook groups were not sure of its purpose either.
Seems I don't need to join that Facebook group then :laugh:
Now even available as Combo - 3.5", and Gotek, and DDI4 - it seems the Gotek and 3.5" drive are in ONE case! Quite cool:
https://www.sellmyretro.com/offer/details/d (https://www.sellmyretro.com/offer/details/ddi4-and-dual-floppy-drive-set-34588)di4-and-dual-floppy-drive-set-34588 (https://www.sellmyretro.com/offer/details/ddi4-and-dual-floppy-drive-set-34588)Quote
DDI4 interface and dual drive.
DDI4 is floppy interface allow connect disk drive (or disc drive emulator) to CPC 464 and have 512 kb ram upgrade on board.
Dual Drive is 3,5 standart floppy drive and USB emulator in one case what allow you use one USB drive and second floppy.
DDI4 have ABBA switch what allow change drive letters.
Well, does it have a properly connected Ready Signal?
Quote from: GUNHED on 16:05, 09 December 18
Well, does it have a properly connected Ready Signal?
Time for @Piotr (http://www.cpcwiki.eu/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=1104) to chime in 8)
I don't know if this deserves its own thread, but Piotr just announced the DDI5:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/5357712057/permalink/10156161289177058/
Dont get all these different ddi versions what is coming with DDI5.
Why didn't he just make one modular version??
Bryce.
Quote
Why didn't he just make one modular version??
Maybe cost point... people that already have a Gotek may no wish to purchase the built in one.
Modular (piggy back board?) adds to the costs as well.
For example, for LambdaSpeak, the (Arduino-like) headers for the click speech board add about 6 $ to the cost.
I'd get one just for the OLED display :D
I don't think that's OLED, just inverted with a white backing.
Bryce.
Ι think the 4 does have an OLED? Kind of hard to tell though.
Where do you see an display on the DDI-4?
Quote from: GUNHED on 16:14, 13 December 18
Where do you see an display on the DDI-4?
My question would more be like - why the heck would you NEED an OLED display on the DDI-4?
I might just glue one to my left cheek, might be more useful! :laugh: ;)
He's talking about the small display on the Gotek part.
Bryce.
Quote from: Bryce on 08:50, 14 December 18
He's talking about the small display on the Gotek part.
Bryce.
I understand that. But the DDI-4 doesn't have a Gotek part (the DDI-5 does it seems)
The set is a DDI-4 + Gotek: https://www.sellmyretro.com/offer/details/ddi4-and-dual-floppy-drive-set-34588
Bryce.
Quote from: Bryce on 16:53, 15 December 18
The set is a DDI-4 + Gotek: https://www.sellmyretro.com/offer/details/ddi4-and-dual-floppy-drive-set-34588 (https://www.sellmyretro.com/offer/details/ddi4-and-dual-floppy-drive-set-34588)
Bryce.
Exactly.. And the OLED is in the drive, where it should be, not in the DDI-4 (which is only RAM + controller if I understand correctly - hence, no need for OLED in the DDI-4) .
My DDI-4 arrived.
At first, my standard 3.5" Floppy cable did *not* work with it. Reason is of course the Ready signal again. My cable has PIN 34 (ready) and PIN 33 (GND) connected, to emulate the signal. However, that does not work with the DDI-4, 'cause PIN 33 is not present >:(
Hence, I connected PIN 33 = PIN 34 = PIN 1 (which is also GND), and then it works fine.Btw, no documentation whatsoever of course, and the ABBA switch is the right switch. The left switch is Parados 1.2 <-> AMSDOS.
That means that there is no switch to disable the 512 KB RAM... it seems.
HxC still works with the modified cable.
I have not tested dual drive yet. Need another cable for that.
I am wondering if he did that (not connect PIN 33 to GND) because he wants to sell his Gotek / 3.5" Dual drive?
... and no problems with Batman Demo either!! :D
Quote from: LambdaMikel on 06:29, 31 December 18
My DDI-4 arrived.
At first, my standard 3.5" Floppy cable did *not* work with it. Reason is of course the Ready signal again. My cable has PIN 34 (ready) and PIN 33 (GND) connected, to emulate the signal. However, that does not work with the DDI-4, 'cause PIN 33 is not present >:(
Hence, I connected PIN 33 = PIN 34 = PIN 1 (which is also GND), and then it works fine.Btw, no documentation whatsoever of course, and the ABBA switch is the right switch. The left switch is Parados 1.2 <-> AMSDOS.
That means that there is no switch to disable the 512 KB RAM... it seems.
HxC still works with the modified cable.
I have not tested dual drive yet. Need another cable for that.
I am wondering if he did that (not connect PIN 33 to GND) because he wants to sell his Gotek / 3.5" Dual drive?
OK, @Piotr (http://www.cpcwiki.eu/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=1104) can you enlighten us please? I contacted you on SellMyRetro regarding this... just to clarify, it seems that DDI4 requires a drive with a "real" ready signal, and the standard cable mod is not working. Can you confirm this please? In principle it is of course great that it makes use of the READY signal.
In the meantime - until (if ?) @Piotr (http://www.cpcwiki.eu/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=1104) answers - I might modify my drive for READY signal... unfortunately, I have the Mitsumi D359M3D which is a pain in the a** to modify (complete dissassembly). Anybody done that before?The mod is here:
https://www.msx.org/forum/msx-talk/hardware/mitsumi-d359m3d-pc-drive-modification?page=1
I might just get a D359T{3,5,6} instead - that seems to be the easist to modify. Agreed?
I am going to return the DDI-4. It doesn't work with the FD-1.
I tried 3 different cables; one DDI-3 cable that works with the FD-1 for sure, the cable as modified described here, and just an unmodified PC floppy cable (no leads cut out). The result is either "disc missing", or the FD-1 does not react at all.
From what I can tell, the DDI-4 is a regression from the DDI-3. Not recommended.
HI Mike
I use Sony MPF 920 Drives (3.5") for my amstrads.
1 Wire to enable the ready , shift drive select to 0 or 1
Ray
Thanks Ray.
You were the one that figured out how to make DDI-1 Clone (DDI-2) work for FD1, right?
Did anything transpire that would also apply to DDI-4?
What concerns me the most is that HxC also doesn't work without the READY mod. That is usually not the case,
so I am assuming that, even though READY is somehow recognized, something is wrong with the handling of theREADY signal in the DDI-4.
Quote from: LambdaMikel on 03:26, 06 January 19
Thanks Ray.
You were the one that figured out how to make DDI-1 Clone (DDI-2) work for FD1, right?
No That was not me I just fixed the ABBA Switch so it would work .
-----
Did anything transpire that would also apply to DDI-4?
Not applicable
-----
What concerns me the most is that HxC also doesn't work without the READY mod. That is usually not the case,
so I am assuming that, even though READY is somehow recognised, something is wrong with the handling of the READY signal in the DDI-4.
----
I think Jeff had a flag in one of his files that you could enable the ready signal ?? (Not sure) its along time ago.
Ray
Anyhow, I expect that to work in tandem with HxC and FD-1, out of the box with little modification, just as the original DD1 controller does. That's not the case though. So I am going to return it. Doesn't fit my needs. Not saying it's not useful - if somebody doesn't have a controller for the 464, it can drive an HxC and/or standard 3.5" drive. With cable modifications above though. I really want it to work for FD1 also though, and with real ready signal.... that's a deal breaker for me.
Quote from: Audronic on 03:21, 06 January 19
HI Mike
I use Sony MPF 920 Drives (3.5") for my amstrads.
1 Wire to enable the ready , shift drive select to 0 or 1
Ray
I guess you're using the floppy insertion detect switch.
This solution is not the best.
You are telling the controller that both drives are ready when a floppy is inserted in this drive. Event if the motor is off.
A proper solution must use gates to at least qualify the ready with the drive select. Ie only drive ready when the drive is selected.
@gerald (http://www.cpcwiki.eu/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=250)
Ok I will check my notes.
This is one of 2 - 3 methods used.
Its been a while since I did this.
I know it passes the CPM test to remove both disks.
Thanks. Ray
@gerald (http://www.cpcwiki.eu/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=250)
Just checked the notes I have and this is the method that I finalised on.
there is one variation and that is to cut the trace that leads to pin 32.
and wire it as per photo. from Pin 37 ON IC to Pin 32
Ray
Ok, i see lot of problems with one ribbon cable......Today i do 4 videos how it is connected, simply as stick. One plug from non twisted ribbon cable to DDI4, second to drive. Third to second drive. I cannot explain it better.PC drive must be modded but sorry ,I thought it was obvious? My fault, is not...
I again test DDI4 with single PC floppy, with FD1, with FD1 and PC floppy and with my Dual drive (3,5 floppy and gotek in one) , all working fine, ABBA switch swap drives, i can copy, format, load without any problems.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NieGHqL2TiA (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NieGHqL2TiA)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=akNN30uqrvI (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=akNN30uqrvI)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Sor_6eNt-s (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Sor_6eNt-s)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yiLYLgdogC4 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yiLYLgdogC4)
Anyway, LambdaMikel open me case on paypal (thank you very much) so please return this to me and i do you full refund.
Thanks for the videos, @Piotr (http://www.cpcwiki.eu/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=1104)
The very same cables result in "disc missing" with my DDI-4, so it seems you sent me a defect one without testing.
You are welcome - this is what Paypal disputes are for. If the seller sends you something not working, and doesn't answer to inquiries, this is a good method of motivating the seller to chime in rather than ignoring the emails from customers ;)
Hang on - is the FD1 floppy cable for 2 drives, is it twisted or not? Standard PC is twisted, this one does not look twisted in your video.
EDIT - I see, non-twisted (you wrote there). Hence, that's not a standard cable.
Is it possible that FD1 only works if you have a second drive connected?
No.
I test all interfaces three times, when is assembled , after washing and before postage. So i'm 100% sure it was working fine.
I run really small company, i do all alone (design, assembly, shipping, paper work, customer support ) for some money for living. Paypal feedback is really important for me. All open cases will ruin it and allow paypal block my funds. Thank's for that.
Normal people try talk first, later use "big guns" like open case on Paypal.
So, sorry , on the moment, i just waiting for you, please return interface, i do you refund. Of course i add you to black list for future sale . Is lot of people who can use it proper.
Quote from: Piotr on 18:40, 06 January 19
No.
I test all interfaces three times, when is assembled , after washing and before postage. So i'm 100% sure it was working fine.
I run really small company, i do all alone (design, assembly, shipping, paper work, customer support ) for some money for living. Paypal feedback is really important for me. All open cases will ruin it and allow paypal block my funds. Thank's for that.
Normal people try talk first, later use "big guns" like open case on Paypal.
So, sorry , on the moment, i just waiting for you, please return interface, i do you refund. Of course i add you to black list for future sale . Is lot of people who can use it proper.
Well, if you don't reply otherwise, what should customers do??? Also, I spend a couple hundred dollars by now on your hardware... so I consider myself a "good customer". If this is how you treat your good customers, how do you treat your "bad customers"??
Btw, did you ever follow up on the Saxdrive with me? How many days did you have to reply to this one before I opened a case?
And if the case can be resolved, then there is no damage at all. For now, this achieved exactly what I wanted to achieve - you are communicating. So, your reputation as a seller is up to you let alone. Don't blame others for that. Opening a dispute is not a "big gun" if the dispute can be resolved.
I am uploading a video of my FD1 and DDI4 showing the failure in the meantime.
If you could explain what is wrong with the cable, that would ge greatly appreciated.
Cable is here. Videos are currently uploading.
Btw, I consider it bad customer relationship management to tell customers they are too stupid to use your hardware in case there is any problem.
First, please close case on Paypal. Later i can do customer support again.
As i say, you open case on Paypal so please return it for me, i do you refund. Case closed. Topic closed.
Quote from: Piotr on 18:58, 06 January 19
First, please close case on Paypal. Later i can do customer support again.
As i say, you open case on Paypal so please return it for me, i do you refund. Case closed. Topic closed.
Well, ALSO for the benefit of other cusomters of the DDI-4, I don't want to close the topic. I want an explanation / solution.
How does closing the topic help anybody??
I think, end topic with you, not about main topic, other people also use my DDI4 without any problems Sheriff ;D Solution is, connect one ribbon cable proper ? How i can explain it better for god sake? :picard:
Also , DDI4 is littlebit modded and redrawed DDI-1 what i was made some time ago, approx 200 people still use it too ;D . Only you have problem .....
Quote from: Piotr on 19:08, 06 January 19Only you have problem .....
... is that so.... :laugh: :P Then you should be able to explain to me what is wrong with the cable that it doesn't work with FD1.
? I don't have enough info for diagnose 30 years old hardware in USA specially on distanse. Sorry i'm not doctor House . ;D For miracles you must go to church not to me.
FD1 drive unit working with other floppy interface (orginal DDI1) and your CPC 464 ? Format, read your floppy discs?
Here you go:
https://youtu.be/IxMBFUOaF64 (https://youtu.be/IxMBFUOaF64)
Hope you can solve this is a constructive manner rather than... well all of this above...
The cable is in the pictures above. No cut out leads, one-on-one.
Also, works with HxC. Does not work with single FD-1 connected.
Why does the drive access light flicker??? You can also tell that the motor spins on and off. So the cable is ok.
I also tried other cables, same effect. Disc missing after motor spins up.
It seems you are assuming that a second drive is present in the chain, doing something to the READY signal or whatever.
No clue what.
Smells a little bit like fire and dynamite here... :o
Quote from: Piotr on 19:40, 06 January 19
? I don't have enough info for diagnose 30 years old hardware in USA specially on distanse. Sorry i'm not doctor House . ;D For miracles you must go to church not to me.
FD1 drive unit working with other floppy interface (orginal DDI1) and your CPC 464 ? Format, read your floppy discs?
See the video for proof that this drive and disc are fine... with original DD1.
Quote from: villain on 19:43, 06 January 19
Smells a little bit like fire and dynamite here... :o
Not at all. Just trying to get something working here....
As I said, there is no technical support from me until you close paypal. You have chosen the legal path yourself when you do a claim . Now, lawyers have a job.
I can help, but not on this way. Sorry.
-
Quote from: Piotr on 20:01, 06 January 19
As I said, there is no technical support from me until you close paypal. You have chosen the legal path yourself when you do a claim . Now, lawyers have a job.
I can help, but not on this way. Sorry.
So you are saying you know what the problem is, looking at the video above? And you are willing to share that information (publicly) if I am going to close the case?
Tested with second FD-1, same effect:
https://youtu.be/fQvD6WhFuak
So, for your understanding of the nature of the PayPal claim:
- I didn't receive the cable which should have been part of the auction
- I made my own cable
- The action claims that DDI-4 works with FD-1.
For me, it doesn't, and I don't know why.
After waiting for a couple of days for Piotr's anwers, I filed the claim, with the checkbox "Item doesn't work as described".
That's fair I think.
I'll close the claim as soon as the FD-1 starts working.
As i say, i escalate Paypal claim , please return interface , is not for you.
Quote from: Piotr on 20:53, 06 January 19
As i say, i escalate Paypal claim , please return interface , is not for you.
Immature...
If anybody has a working single FD1 config with DDI4 please be more mature and speak up.
Do you want me to publish a review for DDI4 on SellMyRetro?
I still haven't rated the auction yet...
Quote from: Piotr on 20:53, 06 January 19
As i say, i escalate Paypal claim , please return interface , is not for you.
So it seems it is defect somehow. Please provide a shipping label and I will.
Or save yourself the costs and tell me what cable mod is required for the FD-1 to make it work.
Whatever you choose.
I'll not close the case either this is resolved in one way or the other.
Quote from: Piotr on 20:53, 06 January 19
As i say, --- , is not for you.
https://youtu.be/M2lfZg-apSA
In
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=akNN30uqrvI (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=akNN30uqrvI)
it looks likethere is a capacitor stuck in some pair of pins in the second connector.?
So, I was on the right track... the ABBA switch doesn't work.
The cable modification that Piotr was trying to hide in his video is this one:
http://www.cpcwiki.eu/index.php/Guide_on_how_to_connect_a_3.5%22_drive_to_a_CPC6128/664 (http://www.cpcwiki.eu/index.php/Guide_on_how_to_connect_a_3.5%22_drive_to_a_CPC6128/664)
One needs to connect PIN 11 and 12 in order to make it work. And then, A / B selection doesn't work at all.Without the bridge between 11 and 12, one gets "disc missing".
Here is the video:
https://youtu.be/rgl4hPBMDAc (https://youtu.be/rgl4hPBMDAc)
I must say I find Piotr's behavior shameful... one can clearly see that he has a jumper / bridge between 11 and 12, yet he says it is a standard cable without mods. I am really angry about that. I won't buy anything again from him with this immature behavior. What's worse, he is calling me the morron that doesn't know how to use his great piece of hardware. Even though I am one of his best customers who bought 5 CPC extension from him by now, he ignores all customer support inquiries for days, and the only means of making him reply is filing a PayPal case. Yet, then he gets all pissy about what is considered a normal mode of operation (disputes are there to be resolved!!), and acts like the soup nazi ("no DDI4 for you!") See video.
I am wondering what others think of that. I am not a fan of excluding people from the board, but I must say I find his behavior hard to tolerate.
Either he should own that his DDI4 has a bug, or that mine is defect. In any case I am expecting some kind of solution. I am not closing the case until I hear from him publicly with some kind of explanatino what's going on.
Right, I forgot - "now laywers have a job" - well we will see about this :laugh: :picard2:
It's the same with his internal 3" Gotek drive. You need a modification to use it with an external 2nd drive.
(discription for this modificatation you find here ...)
It' s a shame...
xesrjb
Quote from: xesrjb on 20:11, 07 January 19
It's the same with his internal 3" Gotek drive. You need a modification to use it with an external 2nd drive.
Thanks, I actually applied that mod to my Saxdrive already. I only got my Saxdrive last fall and I was disappointed that he had not changed the hardware, given that this was a know problem for over 2 years by then. Very few customers actually seem to use a 2nd drive, so it doesn't seem to matter that much for him. Also, the Saxdrive works as a primary drive without mod, not problem. With the DDI-4, the main problem really is that is DOES NOT WORK AT ALL with 75 % of the configurations without mods. THat mean, FD-1 doesn't work out of the box, and neither does standard 3.5" floppy, if floppy does not have READY signal. Now, that's not his fault, it IS his fault though that the standard READY HACK for the cable DOES NOT WORK with DDI-4, since GND is missing (one has to route another cable to PIN 1). All this in order to give people an incentive to buy his dual drive? Who knows.
I though that would be different for DDI-4 though, as this is really only a controller + RAM (it does not contain a Gotek, unlike Saxdrive). So it should not be necessary, right? Anyhow, at least I didn't expect it. I will have a look at the Saxdrive mod and see what it does if applied to the DDI-4. In the meantime, with the cable bridge / jumper, it is working, I only need to figure out how to also have the HxC as second drive. But should be possible now. Thanks anyways!
This is to confirm that a properly RDY-signal modified SINGLE Mistumi D359T5 works without problems with DDI-4. No cable mods required, and AB switch works as well.
Of course, this only applies for one drive. As soon as FD1 is present, problems occur again, see above. But we now know how to fix it.
? Yes, floppy drives need mod. Ewerybody know.
Anyway, this cowboy ask me about refund before. I do it via Paypal.Lot of problems but is done.
Today this cowboy LambdaMikel send me via paypal 50 GBP as donation ? WTF? I send it back. With all respect, LambdaMikel ?
Neither fd1 nor cable should need a mod to work with ddi4... That's not the case unortunately.
And you didn't tell us...
At least try to minimize customer frustration by writing a line or two about this on the ddi4 auction page.
I never asked for refund. I asked for a return and customer support.
But you wouldn't answer and then you refused to help.
After a lot of trial and error I figured out how to use fd1 with ddi4.
I have received a DDI-4 to use wih a CPC464 + FD1 for a friend. The overall quality look good.
I hope to not have any issue plugging it, else this hardware will be useless compared to a DDI-1 with embedded X-MEM.
Quote from: TotO on 16:35, 10 January 19
I have received a DDI-4 to use wih a CPC464 + FD1 for a friend. The overall quality look good.
I hope to not have any issue plugging it, else this hardware will be useless compared to a DDI-1 with embedded X-MEM.
Well, keep us posted if you are encountering the same issues as I did. Maybe mine was an early prototype or has another defect resulting in it requiring mods. If yours behaves like this as well, you at least have an idea how to mod the cable and such that you can keep going.
I am curious to learn if a simple 34 pin floppy cable to FD1 (no second drive present) works for you out of the box, or results in "disc missing" after motor spin up (regardless of ABBA switch position). If so, you simply might have to bridge PIN 11 and PIN 12 in the cable (see my video above). That fixed it for me.
Also, did yours come with a cable? Mine didn't. If so, please post pictures of the cable or describe any mods applied to it.
I will let you know next week, because I'm currently not at home.
If I remember well, the DDI-1 had an embeded ribbon cable, not the FD-1. So, I expect to use a pin compatible cable to do work.
Quote from: TotO on 17:09, 10 January 19
I will let you know next week, because I'm currently not at home.
If I remember well, the DDI-1 had an embeded ribbon cable, not the FD-1. So, I expect to use a pin compatible cable to do work.
Correct, you can just use a standard 34 PIN untwisted PC floppy cable. In order to fit into the FD1 socket, you will have to cut off the "locking pins" from the IDC connector (otherwise it doesn't fit physically into the FD1 socket).
Any update on this one, @TotO (http://www.cpcwiki.eu/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=290) ? Your experience with it?
Quote from: LambdaMikel on 18:33, 12 February 19
Any update on this one, @TotO (http://www.cpcwiki.eu/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=290) ? Your experience with it?
Sorry, I was not able to test it last time (only a weekend for me) and I will return at home only in 2 days... :-\
It not works on my CPC 464... I have to do more tests. May be a problem with the edge connectors.
Quote from: TotO on 09:44, 03 March 19
It not works on my CPC 464... I have to do more tests. May be a problem with the edge connectors.
What did you connect? FD1? In that case cable mod is required it seems...
Since nobody ever followed up on this one, and the question of 2x 3.5" disk drive on the DDI4 cropped up on another CPC board, here is my latest DDI4 desaster - in principle I am no longer using it because I do not want to damage my CPC, but I tried to help another CPC user with this:
https://youtu.be/N8hR2yOVSz4 (https://youtu.be/N8hR2yOVSz4)
If anybody has an idea why the CPC is crashing between 6:03 and 6:54 and after that refuses to turn on, and why the DDI4 power / voltage regulator after 5 minutes of disk operation gets so hot that I can no longer touch it, please let me know!
Does anybody have a working / reliable 2 drive with DDI4?
Both Mitsumie DS395T5 are modded for READY and one is DS0, the other DS1.
I should add that this CPC freezing also also happens after 5 minutes of normal operation, so it has nothing to do with Discology... see second picture.
In principle, I am more than done with DDI4 "bashing", but I am curious if other users encounter similar problems. Maybe I just got a bad one and everybody else is happy. Having said that, I am not using it since March and I got reimbursed, so no hard feelings. But I would advise all DDI4 users to be extra careful and have a close eye on what it might be (potentially harmfully) doing to your CPC.
LambdaMikel,Does the DDI4 work fine with just 1 drive?
If the DDI4 were to cool down (after a power down), does the CPC boot up normally?
It would seem strange for the CPC to not boot up, but the voltage regulator may have a thermal shutdown which may be in effect be causing a Low IR and thus low voltage on the CPC itself.
rpalmer
when it cools down the cpc powers on again.
you can see and hear how scary this is to the cpc... go to the video between 6:25 and the end and turn on the volume to really really loud max. you will see and hear that when the cpc is not booting (but gets power) one actually hears a low pulsing frequency tone / sound from the cpc speaker, which gets higher and higher... I turned it off again after 10 seconds obviously, but it seems that this could be such an effect form the voltage regulator turning on and off as the temperature cools down. there is some kind of weird electrical oscillation going on. maybe even my cpc power supply plays a role in that feedback cycle, because i think it has a auto shut off regulation as well.
the same effect also happens with only one drive attached, but it may take longer to occur.
Somebody requested hi res pics.
More
Upon close inspection I found that 2 solder points were forgotten... see RESET BUTTON... :doh: :picard: :picard2:
I have fixed that, let's see if it makes a difference...
EDIT - not it doesn't... only added stability...
One more
One single 3.5" floppy is enough for it to get hot.
Check this one out - this time I was brave / courageous and didn't turn the CPC off immediately when the Power Surge / Overheating Effect kicked in. You can hear crazy stuff going on in the CPC speaker. Enjoy:
https://youtu.be/GRiq0Dn3z68
Still open to ideas what I am doing wrong! (If anything)
So, either 1 or 2 3.5" drives cause the effect reproducibly within 5 to 7 minutes. With a Gotek drive, it takes about 45 minutes for it to occur. The drives were powered externally with a stabelized PSU.
I'd like to point out that other CPC 464's from my collection show the same problem, and that everything works fine with a DDI and second 3.5" Mitsumi drive and/or Gotek.
@LambdaMikel (http://www.cpcwiki.eu/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=2172)
Can you put a CRO On the output of the Regulator on the ddi-4 and see if its oscillating ?
Ray
In your hi-res picture, C20 seems to be the wrong way around. That won't help. The regulator is probably going into oscillation and the tantulum cap is probably shorting to ground until it cools back down. Try removing C20 and see if the issue persists.
Bryce.
Edit: Looking at one of the other pictures, it may not be the wrong way around, but I'm not sure what it's connected to. I would expect one side to be to ground.It should also be mentioned, that using a tantulum cap on a regulator in this fashion isn't a very good idea. Ideally, electrolytic caps should have been used.
Quote from: Audronic on 10:10, 03 October 19
Can you put a CRO On the output of the Regulator on the ddi-4 and see if its oscillating ?
Yes I can do that... but will have to wait until the weekend.
Hmm, @Piotr (http://www.cpcwiki.eu/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=1104) on my YouTube video says that "You have connected it wrong - or you burned it".
Well, that's not helpful. Please tell me what I have done wrong! I thought it should be as simple as plugging in a cable and powering the floppy with a MOLEX connector and external PSU...
I have deleted the comment. He and his following are disliking the video. That's not helpful either ;) If you have something constructive to say, say it here.
Since this is going wild on the YouTube video, I have disabled all comments. If you should have something constructive to say, do it here. Thanks.
If you can connect it wrong and break it, then it's not a good design... :picard:
Quote from: robcfg on 15:21, 03 October 19
If you can connect it wrong and break it, then it's not a good design... :picard:
Sounds like a ZX Spectrum... ;D
All, it is not my intent to bash the DDI4 or any of Piotr's work.I am a big fan of his DDI3 and use it daily. He certainly made a lot of great hardware extensions and I am grateful that he is one of the few sources for that stuff.
I am by no way saying that all DDI4 have that problem or that, but I am saying that mine does, and no arguing discusses this fact away. Again, I have no hard feelings since I got reimbursed.
Still, it would be good for the sake of all CPC and DDI4 owners / users to verify that you device does not have a similar problem.
Who knows, maybe the oscillation is related to the US power grid with 50 Hz instead of 60! Whatever it is. All I am saying is - be careful, for me it doesn't work and it is potentially harmful to the CPC.
Take it or leave it, for me this discussion is tabled. I can make some more tests such as measuring the regulator output with a scope to check for the oscillation, but then I am done. I am not using it.
So, if you are happy with it, be it! However, I reserve the right to disable or block comments that are not helpful on the Youtube video in an attempt to divert the discussion to this place here. Where it is more useful.
I said what I had to say. That's it.
My DDI4 doesn't get hot, but my disc drive unit is going cranky and doesn't recognise disks. With the DDI-1 it tries to read them then read failed, with the DDI-4 it says Disk Missing.
I'll try a Gotek but I need to sort out the 5V supply for that, maybe there's a CPC 5V floppy power adapter (I'm already using a 5V SCART mod off the 464).
Edit: I could stick the gotek in the 3" disk unit I guess, with the top off to fit.
Quote from: Sykobee (Briggsy) on 16:53, 03 October 19
My DDI4 doesn't get hot, but my disc drive unit is going cranky and doesn't recognise disks. With the DDI-1 it tries to read them then read failed, with the DDI-4 it says Disk Missing.
OK, then you haven't used it yet it seems.
The Disc Missing issue is different - you need a drive the emits a proper READY SIGNAL.
You can mod your drive for this; the Mitsumis I was using are the easiest to mod for READY.
The cable hack for READY (putting it to VCC - or was it GND?) does NOT work for the DDI4, you need a proper READY signal. Also, if this is the only drive and |A, then set the SMD jumper to DS0. Otherwise, the ABBA switch will work.
For the 5V CPC power adapter, you can ask @ikonsgr (http://www.cpcwiki.eu/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=541) who is selling them (CPC plug compatible socket -> MOLEX and 2 CPC compatible plugs, Y cable).
For me, it makes no difference if I use the CPC PSU or an external PSU just for the floppy. Eventually, the effect kicks in and the regulator gets hot.
Quote from: Bryce on 10:20, 03 October 19In your hi-res picture, C20 seems to be the wrong way around. That won't help. The regulator is probably going into oscillation and the tantulum cap is probably shorting to ground until it cools back down. Try removing C20 and see if the issue persists.
Actually, looking at this close up, I think you are right... if the ground copper is GND (this is what I assume), then one can clearly see that the C20 has + connected to GND... yikes.
It is true that this CAP C20 ALSO gets very hot when the effect kicks in. As hot as the regulator actually.
THANK YOU @Bryce (http://www.cpcwiki.eu/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=225) and @gerald (http://www.cpcwiki.eu/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=250) !!
You guys rock. I wish other hardware builders (not mentioning any names here...) would have a similar open mindedness and not assume their customers are dumb as .... not knowing how to power a floppy drive or what have you. Anyhow.
Great! So let me reverse that thing and check if this makes a difference. I am pretty sure it will, because it got EXTREMELY HOT AS WELL. @Piotr (http://www.cpcwiki.eu/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=1104)
are you reading any of this?? All the other "haters" and thumbs down people on my video - you can stop now, people with a more open mind than you have figured it out. Thanks again. In a world where manners would still matter I would have expected an apology from a couple of people, but this is the internet...
I am happy to confirm that reversing C20 has fixed the power issues and overheating.
Thanks again @Bryce (http://www.cpcwiki.eu/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=225) and @gerald (http://www.cpcwiki.eu/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=250)
So, to sum up my DDI4 experience:
- all DDI4's have the problem that you can connect a FD-1 3" Amstrad, but then you will need to short / bridge cable pins 23 and 24, otherwise you get "No disc"
- moreover, the FD-1 then always reacts to A and B, and the ABBA switch doesn't make a difference
- if anybody has a solution for this, please let me know
- that also makes it impossible to have the FD-1 and another drive connected to the DDI4
- you can connect 2 3.5" disk drives without problems, and then the ABBA switch works and A B works, but as soon as FD-1 is part of the setup, it's becoming a "one drive only" solution
- 3.5" drives needs to emit the READY SIGNAL
- the READY signal cable hack does not work with the DDI4
- also, then one 3.5" drive needs to be jumpered as DS0, the other as DS1
- it is also possible to use HxC and Gotek, in combination with a 3.5" disk drive
- my current setup consists of a Gotek FF as A, and a 3.5" Mitsumi floppy as B. Works fine now.
With my specific DDI4, it had these problems:
- the tantulum cap C20 was put in reversed, hence causing overheating and electrical oscillation. fixed.
- the RESET BUTTON was not soldered in properly; 2 solder points were forgotten. fixed.
- customer support... not fixed.
Something else positive:
- BATMAN FOREVER DEMO RUNS THROUGH with DDI4 !! GREAT!
Well, it has been quite a ride. I got reimbursed and got a free DDI4. No hard feelings - I had to work hard though in order to "earn" it. So I think I deserve a free DDI4 for all that (unpleasant) drama.
Hope that helps.
Hi, I was about to get back to you to confirm the cap is definitely backwards, but I only got a chance to look at the hi-res pics this morning and it looks like you've already confirmed it for yourself.
Sadly, this also means that the devices are neither being visually nor sufficiently electrically tested before being shipped. Not acceptable.
Bryce.
Edit: Don't use the same capacitor, replace it with a new one. The heating and reverse polarity will have done serious damage inside it and when they completely fail, they go out in flames.
Yep, well what can you say... :doh: Happy it was only one CAP and one set of forgotten pins, could have been worse. And my CPC did not get damaged. Post surgery pic attached.
Bryce wrote:
QuoteEdit: Don't use the same capacitor, replace it with a new one. The heating and reverse polarity will have done serious damage inside it and when they completely fail, they go out in flames.
Upps!! Both of them? Would you have a source available? I guess I have to figure out the specs first, or is it possible to tell from the markings?
Use a new capacitor, that one will be badly damaged inside and could flame out at any time. When tantulums fail, they can take quite a lot more with them.
The failure it was causing won't have caused any damage to the CPC luckily.
Bryce.
Quote from: LambdaMikel on 04:22, 04 October 19
- all DDI4's have the problem that you can connect a FD-1 3" Amstrad, but then you will need to short / bridge cable pins 23 and 24, otherwise you get "No disc"
- moreover, the FD-1 then always reacts to A and B, and the ABBA switch doesn't make a difference
- if anybody has a solution for this, please let me know[/l][/l]
That's the result of AMSTRAD choice : all amstrad external drive react to both drive selection signal : DS0 and DS1 are connected together on the adaptation board that do the 34 to 26 pin conversion.
On the DDI1 interface the actual selection is done at cable level by removing one of the drive select pin in the IDC connector.
Do you have 2 choices :
1. do the same on your cable
remove pin 23 (DS1) on the outer connector -> this will be drive 0
remove pin 25 (DS0) on the inner connector -> this will be drive 1
If you short DS0/DS1 on your 3 1/2 drive, the position on the cable will just decide if these are A or B
2. mod the FD1 to only get one drive select
either permanently by cutting one of the track on the adapter board within the drive
or putting a switch that let you select DS0 or DS1
[/list]
Quote from: LambdaMikel on 17:37, 03 October 19
OK, then you haven't used it yet it seems.
The Disc Missing issue is different - you need a drive the emits a proper READY SIGNAL.
It's an FD-1. I should have clarified. Because the DDI-1 is also having problems I'm guessing the drive needs some TLC. I see that adding a Gotek will likely not recreate your issue however.
Quote
For the 5V CPC power adapter, you can ask @ikonsgr (http://www.cpcwiki.eu/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=541) who is selling them (CPC plug compatible socket -> MOLEX and 2 CPC compatible plugs, Y cable).
Thanks, I'll look into them.
Quote from: LambdaMikel on 04:22, 04 October 19
I am happy to confirm that reversing C20 has fixed the power issues and overheating.
I'll take mine apart and check it for the same issue.
Quote
So, to sum up my DDI4 experience:
- all DDI4's have the problem that you can connect a FD-1 3" Amstrad, but then you will need to short / bridge cable pins 23 and 24, otherwise you get "No disc"
- moreover, the FD-1 then always reacts to A and B, and the ABBA switch doesn't make a difference
Yes, this explains what I see with the FD-1. It also responds to both A and B. I'll have to do the FD-1 track-cut + add switch mod I guess.
I'll try the Gotek.
But I did rather want to have both the Gotek and the FD-1 connected up. I guess I'll have to swap DDI-1 and DDI-4 depending on need.
Quote from: gerald on 07:52, 04 October 19
That's the result of AMSTRAD choice : all amstrad external drive react to both drive selection signal : DS0 and DS1 are connected together on the adaptation board that do the 34 to 26 pin conversion.
On the DDI1 interface the actual selection is done at cable level by removing one of the drive select pin in the IDC connector.
Do you have 2 choices :
1. do the same on your cable
remove pin 23 (DS1) on the outer connector -> this will be drive 0
remove pin 25 (DS0) on the inner connector -> this will be drive 1
If you short DS0/DS1 on your 3 1/2 drive, the position on the cable will just decide if these are A or B
2. mod the FD1 to only get one drive select
either permanently by cutting one of the track on the adapter board within the drive
or putting a switch that let you select DS0 or DS1
Great, good to know, thanks! Will try that.
Quote from: Sykobee (Briggsy) on 09:57, 04 October 19
I'll take mine apart and check it for the same issue.
Probably unnecessary unless you have observed the same issue as I (maybe don't break away the casing too early). I openened it when I smelled something burning and the plastic got very hot and started to smell.
Quote from: Sykobee (Briggsy) on 09:46, 04 October 19
It's an FD-1. I should have clarified. Because the DDI-1 is also having problems
Right, see my comment that bridging cable pins 23 & 24 solves this issue, but the drive reacts to both A and B then. And then see @gerald (http://www.cpcwiki.eu/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=250) 's comment regarding drive select lines as well.
Actually, now I am not sure if it was 23 & 24 or 11 & 12 that I bridged; 11 & 12 would make more sense according to
http://www.cpcwiki.eu/index.php/Guide_on_how_to_connect_a_3.5%22_drive_to_a_CPC6128/664 (http://www.cpcwiki.eu/index.php/Guide_on_how_to_connect_a_3.5%22_drive_to_a_CPC6128/664)
Since 23 & 24 would just "Floppy Write Enable"...
https://old.pinouts.ru/HD/InternalDisk_pinout.shtml (https://old.pinouts.ru/HD/InternalDisk_pinout.shtml)
Have to count my pins again.
@Gerald, I guess pin 23 -> pin 14 (DRIVESELB) and pin 25 -> pin 12 (DRIVESLA) right?
So I either did DRIVESLA or "Floppy Write Enable" to make it work... let me check tonight.
Quote from: LambdaMikel on 17:18, 04 October 19
Right, see my comment that bridging cable pins 23 & 24 solves this issue, but the drive reacts to both A and B then. And then see @gerald (http://www.cpcwiki.eu/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=250) 's comment regarding drive select lines as well.
Actually, now I am not sure if it was 23 & 24 or 11 & 12 that I bridged; 11 & 12 would make more sense according to
http://www.cpcwiki.eu/index.php/Guide_on_how_to_connect_a_3.5%22_drive_to_a_CPC6128/664 (http://www.cpcwiki.eu/index.php/Guide_on_how_to_connect_a_3.5%22_drive_to_a_CPC6128/664)
Since 23 & 24 would just "Floppy Write Enable"...
https://old.pinouts.ru/HD/InternalDisk_pinout.shtml (https://old.pinouts.ru/HD/InternalDisk_pinout.shtml)
Have to count my pins again.
@Gerald, I guess pin 23 -> pin 14 (DRIVESELB) and pin 25 -> pin 12 (DRIVESLA) right?
So I either did DRIVESLA or "Floppy Write Enable" to make it work... let me check tonight.
pin 23/25 are the one on the DDI1 service manual (ready on pin 1), but it's pin 10/12 on shugart pinout (ready on pin 34)
Now if you look at the IBM/PC pinout, you will see that only a B drive would work (Drivesel / motoron) and that how most 3 1/2 drive are configured.
Quote from: gerald on 18:03, 04 October 19
pin 23/25 are the one on the DDI1 service manual (ready on pin 1), but it's pin 10/12 on shugart pinout (ready on pin 34)
Now if you look at the IBM/PC pinout, you will see that only a B drive would work (Drivesel / motoron) and that how most 3 1/2 drive are configured.
I see, right... and this is where the cable twist thing comes into play. Thanks!
@gerald (http://www.cpcwiki.eu/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=250) just to clarify - the attached picture is from the FD-1 service manual.
I have highlighted the two drive select lines. Correct?
One can clearly see how 4 and 6 are connected on the PCB (DRIVE SEL 0 and DRIVE SEL 1), and that they are coming from 23 and 25. So, as you said, both drives react to SEL0 and SEL1. And, as you say, then the cable connector for A has only the SEL0 line, and the cable connector for B has only the SEL1 line. Interestingly, the schematics don't show that! Did they want to obfuscate / hide that? The only difference the schematics show for A vs. B is the 5V power supply that comes from A.
Thanks
So, I have corrected the schematics - it should look like this, right?
Thanks to@gerald 's excellent help I can now confirm that the DDI4 works fine with FD-1 and Gotek.I have made the special cable, and Gotek is |A, FD-1 is |B. Power for the Gotek comes directly from the FD-1.
Quote from: LambdaMikel on 22:20, 04 October 19
@gerald (http://www.cpcwiki.eu/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=250) just to clarify - the attached picture is from the FD-1 service manual.
I have highlighted the two drive select lines. Correct?
One can clearly see how 4 and 6 are connected on the PCB (DRIVE SEL 0 and DRIVE SEL 1), and that they are coming from 23 and 25. So, as you said, both drives react to SEL0 and SEL1. And, as you say, then the cable connector for A has only the SEL0 line, and the cable connector for B has only the SEL1 line. Interestingly, the schematics don't show that! Did they want to obfuscate / hide that? The only difference the schematics show for A vs. B is the 5V power supply that comes from A.
if you look closely to the diagram, you will see that the dot are smaller where the pin is missing. The error is on pin 33 where there is no dot ;)
So note that in addition to the sel line, B connector also have pin 33,31,29,21 removed (the 5V from the drive)
Quote from: gerald on 09:34, 05 October 19
if you look closely to the diagram, you will see that the dot are smaller where the pin is missing. The error is on pin 33 where there is no dot ;)
So note that in addition to the sel line, B connector also have pin 33,31,29,21 removed (the 5V from the drive)
Oh wow, I would not have thought that this means something! Why no just remove the dots like I did in the pic?? That would have made it much clearer. I guess the low-res scan didn't help that either.
Yes, I have unplugged the internal 5V molex in the FD-1 such that no 5V power flows into the Gotek...
So, now I really need the new CAPs before I can use it...
So, to sum up my DDI4 experience:
- works fine with Gotek FF, HxC, appropriate 3.5" floppies, and Amstrad FD-1 3" drive
- 3.5" drives needs to emit the READY SIGNAL
- the READY signal cable hack does not work with the DDI4
- works fine with Amstrad FD-1, but requires a special cable for dual drive:
thank to Gerald, you need to
remove line 23 from the cable for drive A, and remove line 25 from the cable for drive B.
This is only necessary for two drives, obviously.
also remove the 5V molex inside the FD-1 that feeds 5 V into the cable to the Gotek... the Gotek would probably not like. The 5V produced by the FD-1 can be used to power the Gotek or HxC or 3.5" floppy instead! - for one single Amstrad FD-1 drive, you will ALSO need to mod the cable - in this case, it suffices to bridge the two pins in the other connector. Otherwise, you will get "Disc Missing"
- don't use twisted PC floppy cables. Just straight one-to-one ribbon with 2 connectors for the drives.
- my current setup consists of a Gotek FF as A, and a Amstrad FD-1 as B.
With my specific DDI4, it had these problems:
- the tantulum cap C20 was put in reversed, hence causing overheating and electrical oscillation. fixed.
- the RESET BUTTON was not soldered in properly; 2 solder points were forgotten. fixed.
- customer support... not fixed.
Something else positive:
- BATMAN FOREVER DEMO RUNS THROUGH with DDI4 !! GREAT!
Quote from: gerald on 07:52, 04 October 19
- remove pin 23 (DS1) on the outer connector -> this will be drive 0
- remove pin 25 (DS0) on the inner connector -> this will be drive 1
Obviously, one can also swap inner and outer - in my case, I wanted the Gotek to be A, but still be sitting on top of the FD-1, so I ended up swapping "inner" and "outer". The resulting cable avoids the "twist" then and looks much neater.
In order to make it, I crimped on the inner connector to a standard PC floppy cable, which has cut out line 23 before the end connector (-> A for Gotek), and then before crimping on the inner connector for the FD-1 I pulled the metal crimp pins for line 25 (-> B for FD-1).
Just opened mine, and I confirm the C20 capacitor was inverted.
Looking the others DDI from Piotr, they looks inverted, but are not. Because the ground is not coming from the same side.
To resume:
- All looks visually the same (that was the mistake while assembling)
- DDI3 (lcd screen) for 464 is OK
- DDI3 (no screen) for 6128 is OK
QuoteJust opened mine, and I confirm the C20 capacitor was inverted.
Oh, so yours got that too? And it worked, it did not overheat and shut down the CPC after 5 minutes?
Yes, I would like to do the test while I was at Madrid with friends, to see with us...
After 30mn, but it was used on my X-CPC board and may be it took less power and not overeat too fast.
I thing, if Piotr does serious tests before assembling all the boards, and not power-up / power-down, he was able to detect the invertion from the DDI4 design. Is it too hard to wait 8 hours to valid a design, before the real production?
If you were using a very clean supply (Bench supply for example) the capacitor wouldn't really be required and it would all work more or less as expected. That still doesn't excuse such bad production/testing processes. You test things in a worst case scenario, not best case.
Bryce.
Well, yes, unfortunately it underlines my previous advice to other DDI-4 users to check their device... which unfortunately means you'll have to break open the nice 3d printed case :( Mine was glued, plus screws.
Only screws on mine... The label was properly removed with something to dissolve the glue.
Best for users is to not buy the DDI-4 while Piotr do not communicate about a revision with the problem fixed.
Quote from: TotO on 13:33, 22 October 19
Only screws on mine... The label was properly removed with something to dissolve the glue.
Just an aside: it was gasoline :-D
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48941235483_279f11bec1_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hyLCdT)
If you need to remove stickers and are not confident using the heat of a reworking station, lighter fluid is perfect. It does not leave marks, you just need an x-acto knife to peel off the sticker, and the glue will stick again once the gasoline has vanished. It is not indicated, however, to remove/replace/fake security labels.
Quote from: TotO on 13:33, 22 October 19
Only screws on mine... The label was properly removed with something to dissolve the glue.
Best for users is to not buy the DDI-4 while Piotr do not communicate about a revision with the problem fixed.
Well, he DOES communicate, just not here and not to solve the problem. Rather, he is posting "stories" and alternative facts and "fake news" on CPC Fakebook Group. And his following is then giving "thumbs down" to the person that brought the problem to their attention in the first place, in their (CPC's) best interest. So, yes, let's shoot the messenger, there IS no problem. The messenger is just too stupid to use a great piece of hardware. Great new internet world where the truth doesn't matter that much anymore. Rather, propaganda. Anyhow, I should not be starting again...
I was even told that he was going to close down his shop now because there is too much trouble with all of this "cyber bullying"; for now, there are only 22 auctions so maybe this is the "closing sale" of his shop??
https://www.sellmyretro.com/user/profile/zaxon
Anyhow. All I am saying is BE CAREFUL with the DDI4 and check it!
Quote from: LambdaMikel on 15:06, 22 October 19Rather, he is posting "stories" and alternative facts and "fake news" on CPC Fakebook Group. And his following is then giving "thumbs down" to the person that brought the problem to their attention in the first place, in their (CPC's) best interest. So, yes, let's shoot the messenger, there IS no problem. The messenger is just too stupid to use a great piece of hardware. Great new internet world where the truth doesn't matter that much anymore. Rather, propaganda. Anyhow, I should not be starting again...
3 peoples around me to see the problem occured... And agree.
One of them has his job to officially repair PS4 for Sony. :laugh:
Quote from: deepfb on 14:55, 22 October 19
Just an aside: it was gasoline :-D
:o :o :o
Dude!! ;D You are adding gasoline to a dangerous situation - just be careful that the hot regulator and C20 does not set your CPC and DDI4 on fire :laugh:
I am still SAD that he does not see that I am actually trying to help him and his situation.
After all, I am grateful that he is one of the few sources that makes 464 hardware such as the DDI3 and DDI4. And I am still a big fan of his DDI3, no matter whether he likes that or not.
And, as a community, I think we are still pretty nice about that and how the problem is not getting inflated as something bigger.
And now back to problem solving mode... please. :)
Quote from: LambdaMikel on 15:44, 22 October 19
I am still SAD that he does not see that I am actually trying to help him and his situation.
After all, I am grateful that he is one of the few sources that makes 464 hardware such as the DDI3 and DDI4. And I am still a big fan of his DDI3, no matter whether he likes that or not.
And, as a community, I think we are still pretty nice about that and how the problem is not getting inflated as something bigger.
And now back to problem solving mode... please. :)
I just check mine..
It was ok. Both caps soldered in same direction, all other solderpoint were done..
Function was tested, no heat radiation...
xesrjb
Quote from: xesrjb on 18:30, 22 October 19
I just check mine..
It was ok. Both caps soldered in same direction, all other solderpoint were done..
Good to hear!
Quote from: xesrjb on 18:30, 22 October 19
I just check mine.. It was ok.
It sould be fine to know when you bought it.
direction of CAP no 19 ( see your pictures)
It seems to be the right one..
xesrjb
Quote from: TotO on 19:10, 22 October 19
It sould be fine to know when you bought it.
Purchased in June, recieved in August 2019..
xesrjb
It should look like this (mine after the fix - still need to replace them with new ones though, but the direction is right that way)
In my case it was C20, not C19...
Quote from: LambdaMikel on 19:17, 22 October 19
It should look like this (mine after the fix - still need to replace them with new ones though, but the direction is right that way)
In my case it was C20, not C19...
Yes, my PCB looks like yours after fixing...😜
xesrjb
Quote from: LambdaMikel on 15:44, 22 October 19
I am still SAD that he does not see that I am actually trying to help him and his situation.
After all, I am grateful that he is one of the few sources that makes 464 hardware such as the DDI3 and DDI4. And I am still a big fan of his DDI3, no matter whether he likes that or not.
And, as a community, I think we are still pretty nice about that and how the problem is not getting inflated as something bigger.
And now back to problem solving mode... please. :)
Generally, the people here give great support and help solve issues rather than tell users that they are the problem and ignore obvious bad workmanship. It's why you'll find me here and why I've never been on Facebook.
Regarding using lighter fuel to remove stickers: Yes, it works really well, but! (and it's a very big but) it depends what the sticker is stuck to. Lighter fluid is a mixture of butane(s) and propane (and other impurities). Many commercial plastics, including PVC, PP (Polypropylene) and ABS dissolve or get damaged when they come into contact with these. In this case (no pun intended), it's most likely PLA, so you should be fine. But always check what the surface is made of before you start slapping chemicals on it.
Bryce.
For those still interested in this issue:
I experienced the "missing disc" error in my DDI-4 with FD-1 using a 1-to-1 cable. I finally solved it, this is how:
The FD-1 has the DS0 and DS1 lines wired together, so they respond as either unit A or B depending on the cable wiring (the original DDI-1 cable has certain lines cut in each conector). The DDI-4 switches the DS0 and DS1 lines between 5V and GND (always taking opposite values) depending on the position of the ABBA switch.
So the FD-1 connected straight to the DDI-4 causes, as bad as it sounds, a short circuit, and raises the mentioned error. What I did is to remove the DS1 line from the FD-1 side connector, this solved the issue.
Shouldn't it be DS0? Or you want to have it as A drive?
Yes, it's for a 464, I want it as single drive. But of course you can set it as A, B or even install one of each.
Quote from: abalore on 17:21, 28 January 20
Yes, it's for a 464, I want it as single drive. But of course you can set it as A, B or even install one of each.
Ah sure! Forgot! The corona virus seems to have arrived.
However thanks a lot for the information. Wouldn't have expected that DS0 and DS1 are shorted in FD-1.
Quote from: GUNHED on 17:43, 28 January 20
Ah sure! Forgot! The corona virus seems to have arrived.
However thanks a lot for the information. Wouldn't have expected that DS0 and DS1 are shorted in FD-1.
https://www.ebay.de/itm/402034461336 (https://www.ebay.de/itm/402034461336)
xesrjb
Quote from: xesrjb on 18:53, 28 January 20
https://www.ebay.de/itm/402034461336 (https://www.ebay.de/itm/402034461336)
:laugh:
You can see the short in the FD-1 Service manual, page 14, about the Relay P.C.B.
Quote from: abalore on 19:22, 28 January 20
You can see the short in the FD-1 Service manual, page 14, about the Relay P.C.B.
Did you even READ what was discussed here before? All of this has been sorted out before.
Completely unnecessary post. See Gerald's and LambdaMikel's posts on the previous page of this thread :picard2:
Quote from: CPC4Sure! on 20:37, 28 January 20
Did you even READ what was discussed here before? All of this has been sorted out before.
Completely unnecessary post. See Gerald's and LambdaMikel's posts on the previous page of this thread :picard2:
There are a lot of solutions proposed in this thread. I'm just relating my personal experience, what may be interesting for someone, even if the facts where commented before my comment serves as a double confirmation.
I'm afraid the only "completely unnecessary post" is yours.
Quote from: CPC4Sure! on 20:37, 28 January 20
Did you even READ what was discussed here before? All of this has been sorted out before.
Completely unnecessary post. See Gerald's and LambdaMikel's posts on the previous page of this thread :picard2:
Also, did you create your user 5 minutes before only to reply my comment? ha ha, what a honor! and with an invalid country code, a VPN maybe? I'm pretty sure who you are, because I saw that childish behaviour before, in this same thread...
Quote from: CPC4Sure! on 20:37, 28 January 20
Did you even READ what was discussed here before? All of this has been sorted out before.
Completely unnecessary post. See Gerald's and LambdaMikel's posts on the previous page of this thread :picard2:
Hello Piotr! Can I return my defective DDI-4? :-\
Quote from: abalore on 20:53, 28 January 20
There are a lot of solutions proposed in this thread. I'm just relating my personal experience, what may be interesting for someone, even if the facts where commented before my comment serves as a double confirmation.
OK, then you are aware of the discussion. Then, to follow discussion forum netiquette, you give credit to the person who has figured it out - and that was GERALD - you didn't solve anything, you either didn't read or you diluted the thread with unnecessary information. In any case, if your intent was to CONFIRM then you do it by quoting GERALD and not by saying:
Quote from: abalore on 20:53, 28 January 20
I experienced the "missing disc" error in my DDI-4 with FD-1 using a 1-to-1 cable. I finally solved it, this is how:
I hope this is clear now how to contribute to technical discussion. First READ, then THINK, then POST if something relevant to say, ELSE - don't. If you want to CONFIRM, you QUOTE.
Quote from: CPC4Sure! on 21:51, 28 January 20
OK, then you are aware of the discussion. Then, to follow discussion forum netiquette, you give credit to the person who has figured it out - and that was GERALD - you didn't solve anything, you either didn't read or you diluted the thread with unnecessary information. In any case, if your intent was to CONFIRM then you do it by quoting GERALD and not by saying:
I hope this is clear now how to contribute to technical discussion. First READ, then THINK, then POST if something relevant to say, ELSE - don't. If you want to CONFIRM, you QUOTE.
I didn't say I wanted to confirm, I said my experience can serve as a confirmation, so all your diatribe is just bullshit. I don't need you to tell me how to contribute to forums, among other things because I contribute just how I want, and not how you would like.
I recommend you to create your own forum and practice your totalitarism there. Also, if you are in need of leaving your hate, at least do it with your user account instead of creating a new one as the coward you ovbiously are.
Quote from: CPC4Sure! on 21:51, 28 January 20
OK, then you are aware of the discussion. Then, to follow discussion forum netiquette, you give credit to the person who has figured it out - and that was GERALD - you didn't solve anything, you either didn't read or you diluted the thread with unnecessary information. In any case, if your intent was to CONFIRM then you do it by quoting GERALD and not by saying:
I hope this is clear now how to contribute to technical discussion. First READ, then THINK, then POST if something relevant to say, ELSE - don't. If you want to CONFIRM, you QUOTE.
It's incredible you are teaching netiquette from a newly created account, hiding your identity while filling the forum database with shit
Quote from: CPC4Sure! on 21:51, 28 January 20
OK, then you are aware of the discussion. Then, to follow discussion forum netiquette, you give credit to the person who has figured it out - and that was GERALD - you didn't solve anything, you either didn't read or you diluted the thread with unnecessary information. In any case, if your intent was to CONFIRM then you do it by quoting GERALD and not by saying:
I hope this is clear now how to contribute to technical discussion. First READ, then THINK, then POST if something relevant to say, ELSE - don't. If you want to CONFIRM, you QUOTE.
For someone new to a community, you certainly think you know a lot about netiquette.
You'll find that the CPCWiki (and the CPC community in general...) is a very friendly place, so please chill. Nobody will tolerate this kind of behavior here.
Quote from: abalore on 19:22, 28 January 20
You can see the short in the FD-1 Service manual, page 14, about the Relay P.C.B.
Thanks for posting!!! :) :) :)