HxC case

[beaker]

Hurrah, 3 days into my holiday and I contracted man-flu, still, gave me time away from the Christmas shopping to make a start on the HxC case. Hopefully this makes sense as I am high on medication...

I've taken everyone's advice and leaving it as an external drive with an ABBA switch and the power I'll take by splicing wires to the main CPC power cable. I've used the same box and switches as I did for the Megaflash pictured alongside to keep the continuity going. I mounted the PCB on legs and dremeled a hole for the SD card then realised I didn't have a small file in the toolbox widen the hole that wasn't high enough for the card so I ended up using the file on the nail clippers (professional me  )... I've also mounted the buttons that I'll wire up to the J2 section on the PCB. I was going to put the display at an angle to make is easier to read but both boxes I've bought to hack apart for this have been unsuitable so I've simply dremeled and filed a hole in the top so the LCD will be flush with the case and I'll come back to it in the New Year.

The reason I am posting is while it's in a relatively early stage I was wondering:

1. Has anyone bothered mounting a set of LED's? Most of the post I see where people have put the HxC in the machine they've only bothered with the buttons. I was thinking of putting them on the left side of the case in the mirror position of the buttons if it's a relatively easy proposition?

2. The box is reasonably large; are there any other modifications that use that port that I can include in the box?

Thanks in advance,

Beaker

[Gryzor]

Lovely stuff, though could the board come a bit higher so that the screen is nearer the hole?
PS What's a man-flu? Is there a woman-flu?

[steve]

Every man knows that woman-flu is mild so that they are able to look after their husband when he has man-flu 

[Bryce]

Looks good. Most people don't extend the LEDs out because (A) You don't really need them, they just look nice when they are flickering on and off (B) you have to remove the original SMD LEDs from the PCB and solder 4 new wires on there = Too much bother.

Bryce.

[beaker]

Lovely stuff, though could the board come a bit higher so that the screen is nearer the hole?

Hi Gryzor, sorry I meant to say it's a work in progress and that part was still outstanding ; I cut up and used some tile spacers as they were the right height then used a couple of old screws from a broken satelite remote control to fix it in place (newer pictures attached). I have some connector pins and an old ribbon I am going to use to connect it back to the lower section but now you mention it, it would have probably been easier to just raise the SD section higher.  Hopefully looks a bit better now...

Every man knows that woman-flu is mild so that they are able to look after their husband when he has man-flu 

I wish! I get no sympathy 

Looks good. Most people don't extend the LEDs out because (A) You don't really need them, they just look nice when they are flickering on and off (B) you have to remove the original SMD LEDs from the PCB and solder 4 new wires on there = Too much bother.
Bryce.

Hi Bryce, you're right, I don't think I want to even go there  . So as a work around I could drill some holes where the LED's are currently located (illustrated below), find a nice smooth surface to hold the base against and force some hot glue in from behind then carefully remove any excess so I get the lights showing through AND it breaks up the front of the case a bit more. 

Beaker

[Bryce]

Good plan. You don't need to connect all 16 LCD pins, D0 - D3 aren't used.

Bryce.

[Gryzor]

Looks goooood!

[beaker]

Good plan. You don't need to connect all 16 LCD pins, D0 - D3 aren't used.

Bryce.

Thanks Bryce, I didn't know that. Well the LED holes are cut and I shoved glue in there; not perfect but it'll do. Tomorrow I'll start soldering if I am up to it. Another n00b question sorry, what's the best way of cutting the pin in the CPC for the ABBA switch? I am worried about using the chunky wire cutters I have incase I damage one of the other pins and the dremel blade may be too big as well to do a decent job. 

Beaker

[Bryce]

It's a CPC+ you have isn't it? If so, it's the easy one to convert (much easier than a Classic CPC), take a look here: http://www.cpcwiki.eu/index.php/ABBA_switch If you only have a huge chunky Bolt-cutter then I'd go for something else. The pins are pretty flimsy, so you could probably use a decent scissors instead and get a more accurately centred cut. Just make sure it's the correct pin!

Bryce. 

[beaker]

Yes, sorry, it's the plus. Cool, scissors of various sizes I have 

Just make sure it's the correct pin!

No worries, I'll have the scissors in one hand, the CPC on the desk and the large Apple Mac screen with your guide on screen infront of me; what could possibly go wrong? 

Beaker

[Bryce]

Alcohol being involved? Having enjoyed a family sized spliff before starting?

Bryce.

[beaker]

Goes without saying, I need those to stop the shakes otherwise I'll be soldering my nads to the board..... 

[Gryzor]

Goes without saying, I need those to stop the shakes otherwise I'll be soldering my nads to the board..... 

Definitely not good, depending on your approach of course.

[beaker]

I know I am making the HxC but I couldn't resist buying a couple of disks.... 

[00WReX]

I don't have an HxC yet, but I basically only use 3.5" disks.
A couple of days ago I picked up a bundle of 43x 3" disks and thought that was good...

But your pile swamps mine, is that about 75 disks ?? nice pickup...

Cheer,
Shane

[Bryce]

When I bought my 6128, the seller threw in 140 3in disks at no extra cost. It included the standard CPM disks, several original games and even a few unopened Maxell CF2s

Bryce.

[00WReX]

Wow...nice...(He must have really wanted that 6128 gone  , If you'd haggled a bit longer may have got his watch  )

Cheers,
Shane

[Gryzor]

Nice batch! One can never have enough 3" disks...