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My 464+ fixes and conversion

Started by ||C|-|E||, 23:44, 30 May 16

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||C|-|E||

Hi guys!

I am starting this topic just to show you what I have been doing with the 464+ I bought a few months ago, maybe you will find it entertaining :) . Long story short is that I managed to buy this machine for cheap including a CM-14 monitor. When I received them I found that both the computer and the screen were in great apparent condition. However, when I plugged the computer I realized that the screen presented some distortion and adjustment problems: the image was a bit rotated and the v-size was not right either. The 464+ was fine, besides a few not working keys.

I firstly was very reluctant to open the screen but at some point I decided that I would give it a try. The summary is that it was necessary to adjust the position of the deflection coil, change the caps and adjust the v-size as well. After that, the screen looked as great as new. However, as it was mentioned before, messing with a monitor is something dangerous that maybe I should not have done.

Regarding the computer, I decided to go for a 6128+ conversion. Bryce posted a great "how to" in the Wiki long ago, so I just needed to source the components and install them. This is how the motherboard looked after removing all the necessary solder. I used quite a lot of flux and two rolls of desoldering braid, that is why it looks so brown. Nothing that a good cleaning with isopropanol cannot solve.

[attachimg=1]

Here is the board with all the new sockets installed. I used traditional sockets because I already had them at home.

[attachimg=2]

With all the sockets in place it was time to install the RAM, that needs a couple of caps and a pair of resistors to work. It tested that everything was fine loading some 128KB only programs before going on.

[attachimg=3]

[attachimg=4]

Then I installed the rest of the components. This is how the board looks when everything is in place. For the floppy drive power I decided to solder a 4-way connector. It is the same one that PC fans use and allows to keep the cables very short if we decide not to install an internal drive. Moreover, if we go for it, or for an internal HxC, this allows to choose the length of the power cables at will.

[attachimg=5]

[attachimg=6]

Finally, I did the RGB output mod to remove the jail bars that usually plague the Plus range image. Again, it was Bryce the one who came up with the solution, that is a simple as soldering 3 220pf caps between the colour signals and the ground.

[attachimg=7]

[attachimg=8]

It was time to test everything, and since I still did not receive the Centronics connector for the external port I prepared a crappy cable for a quick test. As you see, it seems to be working nicely  :) .

[attachimg=9]

Now I need to install the Centronics port and make a hole in the case. I will probably go for a reset button as well. I am still not sure about the internal expansion port, though :D

VincentGR


Bryce

Very nice work, glad my guides were of use to you. Wouldn't it have been possible to put a 4x pinheader directly on the PCB for the floppy power? The spacing should be correct (2.54mm).

And if you can do all this work so nicely, why have you sent the other plus to me for modification? :)

Bryce.

seanb

Excellent work and thanks for the pictures.
It'll be nice to have a reference for when I attempt this.
Thou shall not question Captain Wrong!

||C|-|E||

I am glad you like it guys!!  :D

@ Bryce Regarding the connector, I completely agree, a pinheader is the way to go. Yesterday I was thinking about it and I think that I will do the substitution today. Luckily, it is in one of the easiest parts of the board. I think I will install a Molex like this one:

[attachimg=1]

Regarding the other question, the answer is obvious: you are Sir Bryce, the one who makes the tutorials and designs new hardware. I am a solder junkie that just follows instructions. My beloved 6128 is way better in your hands than in mine  :D


Bryce

Yes, that's exactly the type of connnector I was thinking of. Just make sure you install it in the correct direction for the 5V and 12V to be correct with a standard lead.

No problems regarding your 6128+. As soon as I get around to doing it, I'll be back to you (to remind me of exactly what you want done).

Bryce.

||C|-|E||

Well, everything done! There was only a way to put the connector, so it was really easy. If you try to install it the other way around and you need to move all the caps  :laugh: I like it much more now  :)

[attachimg=1]

Another thing I did was to give the keyboard a deep cleaning. It was really dusty but great otherwise, no yellowing at all.

[attachimg=2]

seanb

 :o That keyboard.

So white
Thou shall not question Captain Wrong!

Bryce

Yup, the connector is a much nicer solution.

Bryce.

VincentGR


||C|-|E||

I think that this computer was barely used  :) I bought it from a lady that received it as a present in the 90s and she mostly kept it in storage. In fact, the CRT was completely clean inside when I opened it. However, that does not prevent many Pluses to became yellow. I have some at home in Spain that come from a new old stock that was always in the dark and one in particular is like a lemon. The others, however, are much more withe  :)

Dr Tiger Ninestein

Great job. Threads like these make me really wish that I'd payed more attention in my electronics classes back in college.

||C|-|E||

So, I finally received the centronics port and finished the board. I chose to secure it using a couple of screws and two protectors to prevent any damage. The screws were not touching the tracks but it is always nice to have some cushioning  :) The other option was to solder it, but the screws are much easier to remove in the unlikely case that the port needs to be replaced.

[attachimg=1]

[attachimg=2]

And this is how the board looks once is completed:

[attachimg=3]

Definitely quite crowded when everything is in place  :laugh:

[attachimg=4]

I was checking that everything works and now what is left is to make the hole in the case for the new port and, maybe, install the reset button. I have the switch here but I still do not know if I am going to put it or where. If you have any suggestions about the placement, they are very welcome  :)


Bryce

The cavities under the sides of the keybaord are good for hiding switches, but there's not a lot of space on the inside, so check that the switches would fit before you start drilling holes! Se pictures here: 464+ Mod

Bryce.

||C|-|E||

Huuuum... that is actually not a bad idea! I was thinking to install this guy in the picture, but I have some that could fit in those gaps without drilling the case  :)

[attachimg=1]

On the other hand, and although it works fine, I will have to clean the tape deck a bit. I do not know about replacing the cables that go to the head, of at least resolder the black one. It looks awful but, on the other hand, maybe it is not necessary.

[attachimg=2]

Bryce

Those joints look fine, I'd leave them as they are. Just clean the heads and remove the dust.

Bryce.

||C|-|E||

Thanks Bryce! At the end that is what I did  :)

||C|-|E||

So, today in the evening I decided to make the hole in the case  :) . I marked the shape with a pen and masking tape and then I removed the bulk of plastic with a hot knife.

[attachimg=1]

After this, the rest is a question of patience and elbow grease using the files. I almost finished with it  :D

[attachimg=2]


Gryzor

Wow, great work there... that's almost factory-like!

||C|-|E||

Glad you like it!  :D Actually, making a hole is not difficult if you are patient with the file, hehe.

||C|-|E||

#20
Well... it seems that the mod is over, same as my sleeping time. At the end, adjusting the case was quite complicate, or at least, more complicate than expected  :) First, I removed the filter that has the Plus inside after Bryce confirmed that is more or less useless. This made some room (I had moved it far away, but this is much nicer).

[attachimg=1]

Then, I had to work with the file in the left hinge of the tape deck because it hit the new centronics port and did not allow to put the case back in place. At the end, I removed a little bit of plastic in a corner of the port too, very little, it is invisible from the outside, but it helped as well. Below is how the modified hinge looks. Still plenty of plastic left to hold the lid.

[attachimg=2]

And this is the back of the computer!

[attachimg=3]

Everything works very well so far  :) Now, it is time to go to bed  :picard:

Audronic

#21
@ ||C|-|E||

Would you be able to put this Update-Mod on the Wiki with all the Photos Please.
Brilliant upgrade Well done

Ray
Procrastinators Unite,
If it Ain't Broke PLEASE Don't Fix it.
I keep telling you I am Not Pedantic.
As I Live " Down Under " I Take my Gravity Tablets and Wear my Magnetic Boots to Keep me from Falling off.

Bryce

#22
He did the mod following my Guide that is already on the Wiki. You can find it here: 464Plus Conversion - CPCWiki
However, I didn't include a picture of the hinge modifications, maybe we could add that picture to the page.

Bryce.

Edit: I've just added the hinge picture to the Wiki Guide.

Kris

Nice upgrade and clean work; good job guy :)


1024MAK

Excellent workmanship, well done :D

And thanks for all the pictures.

Mark
Looking forward to summer in Somerset :-)

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