A repair mod for the tape counter reset button

[nestorv]

Hello guys.I was going through the net trying to find a repair or a replacement for the broken reset button that is a common issue amongst 464 users.
I found the following link https://www.retrohax.net/amstrad-cpc464/
In this case the modder has replaced the small plastic tooth that,  when the button is depressed, pushes away the cogs on the top and counter is reset.

I am following the same method here. I got some electrical solid core wire, which I found to be a bit on the thick side (maybe a paperclip is more suitable, although it is harder to bend), and made a small loop that I fitted in the reset button.
Here is a picture of the button which I am still waiting for the epoxy to dry. When dry I am goint to cut out the excess wire and close the clear lid





More Images to follow tomorrow when the epoxy will be dried and the counter assembled! 

[CraigsBar]

WOW, A great looking mod/repair. Hopefully this will present a suitable fix for other people with faulty tape counter reset buttons as it seems the supply of NOS replacement parts has finally dried up.


Nice pictures BTW


Craig.

[nestorv]

Thanks Craig. I am struggling with the pictures. It is an ugly mod but it works fine. Tomorrow when everything dries up and I will cut the excess wire I will take pictures of the button again hopefully under daylight (Although there is a snow storm currently here in Greece)
Credit goes to the original modder. You can read about it on the link I have posted at the start of the thread.
If I had the time to do it again, I would go for a size thinner gauge wire but not too thin as that would go under the cogs when fully pressed and there is no way to pull it up.

[Audronic]

@nestorv

Thanks for the Photos
I have 4 to repair.

? did you use a heated up Needle or Wire to make the holes for the Copper wire or a Drill ? ? ?

Thanks    Ray

[Bryce]

That a difficult mod to do, very easy to further damage the button, but it looks like you've got it nailed (or wired in this case).
This would be a classic job for a 3D printer. Has anyone tried modelling the original part and printing it?

Bryce.

[nestorv]

Here are a trio of pictures that make it more clearly.
Yes I heated up a drill bit and made the holes as the plastic is brittle and hard. One thing I would do differently is to use a size smaller wire.
Note in the picture that follows that the wire is bent upwars in a triangular fashion away from the bottom of the button. This is crucial as it resembles the actual bit that breaks away and it helps to clear the cogs when the button is not pressed in. Do not leave it in a square shape but pinch it with pliers so it looks like this. That is why a thinner wire would be handy and more appropriate.


Here is a picture with the button standing and one in the assembly.

and the last one




It is not the prettiest of jobs but it works.

Yes, I am in the lookout for a 3D printer but I believe for this we would need pictures of an unbroken button so we could copy it. If I only had a 3D printer (that is my Xmas Wish for next year though)
If anyone is willing to 3D print these then I am in the line to buy some 

[Bryce]

I need to disassemble a 464 (probably in the next two weeks) that has a working counter, so if I remember, I'll take the button out and take the details.

Bryce.

[nestorv]

If you do that and post dimensions and pictures if possible I can model it in 3D and ready to print files

[Audronic]

@nestorv


Thanks for the High quality photos.


I will have a look at making 1 (One) using smaller wire


Thanks again
Ray

[Audronic]

@nestorv


If you 3d Print them I would like to purchase 5 (Five) pieces.


Thanks.   Ray

[nestorv]

@Audronic

I do not have a 3D printer at the moment, but it is my wish to get one soon. If anyone puts up images of a working button I can model it in 3D in a ready to print file and give it out.
Else when I have the time I will try to make a construct from the pieces I have at hand.

[geebus]

I need to disassemble a 464 (probably in the next two weeks) that has a working counter, so if I remember, I'll take the button out and take the details.

If you've taken the measurements quite precisely I can get some machined out of aluminium or plastic. I worked in a machine shop for a good few months and I'm still friends with the owner.he has a couple of CNC mills. Could fire out a good batch really quickly.
Would anyone like that?I could get a quote first obviously. The more people want/need them, the cheaper they'll be.

[Audronic]

@geebus


Thats good news.
I would be interested in 4 Pieces ( depending on price )


Thanks.   Ray

[geebus]

@geebus


Thats good news.
I would be interested in 4 Pieces ( depending on price )

Cool, if someone has drawings of the item I'll get a quote.
People prefer black plastic or untreated aluminium?

[Bryce]

At the bench at the moment. Just need to finish a repair and then I'll do a sketch (Arduino fanboys: No not that kind of sketch, the word existed before your "hardware for dummies" came along).

Bryce.

[Audronic]

Cool, if someone has drawings of the item I'll get a quote.
People prefer black plastic or untreated aluminium?

Thanks for the Option.
Black Plastic would be suitable for me (it will take 30 years to age and then Break) I may have lost interest by then 


Thanks.  Ray

[Bryce]

Ok, here's the Reset button dimensions. If you are having the parts machined, then I'd leave out the hollow inside the button, it's only there to assist the molding process.

Bryce.

[geebus]

Thanks, I'll send them off for a quote.

[geebus]

Can I just confirm that the non required hole is the one that has a measurement of '?'
My technical drawings differ to yours. mine look much more cluttered with all the measurements on the drawing itself rather than the neat way you've done it 

[Bryce]

The entire shaft is hollowed. Unnecessary if it's being machined.


Bryce.

[geebus]

ta, thought as much.


I just got a reply from my mate who said the drawing is "pump" and "it's [the part] tiny. Only marginally bigger than your [mine] penis".
He's a nice chap. He was a pleasure to work with..

[Bryce]

Is "pump" good or bad?

Bryce.

[geebus]

It's the most polite thing I've ever heard him say.
But he's still saying it's bad.
He never has anything good to say about anything except maybe motorbikes.


Normally he'd look at a drawing and shout across the workshop about it and re-draw it his way.
The way he then taught me.

[Bryce]

Tell him from me: "A proper machinist wouldn't have an issue with it". I know it doesn't tick all the boxes for a compliant drawing, but it's the closest I could get with Powerpoint in 20 minutes. Let's see what the parts look like

Bryce.

[geebus]

HAHA! I won't pass that on or he'll just make them £5 each.
Impressed you used power point. Was wondering what it was.


Not heard anything back yet since he was insulting me, and I him.
I'll let you all know as soon as I hear back.