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Experience with RetroBright?

Started by LambdaMikel, 18:20, 23 January 18

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LambdaMikel

Anyone tried it on CPC 464 old-style german (grey) keys?
Does it work? Is it worth the effort? Are there better solutions?

rpalmer

I have found a little "windex" or just simple water + baking soda with a little effort can get the keys quite clean and also by cleaning the keyboard the keys travel a lot easier.
I have retrobrighted my Amiga keys (the white ones only) and they do look better, but as for grey keys I suspect they will go "whiter" since the process is just "bleeching" which they would likely go a lighter shade of grey.

rpalmer

LambdaMikel

Quote from: rpalmer on 21:27, 23 January 18since the process is just "bleeching"


... I think it must be a little bit more than just bleeching.
I had my CPC 464 old-style "high" keys in a bucket of bleech
over night, and they were clean after that, but still ivory-like
decolorized.

pelrun

It's explicitly *not* bleaching, which is a reaction with chlorine, and which attacks many coloured compounds. Additionally, chlorine is a smaller atom than the bromine it replaces, which would result in brittle plastic. Do not ever use bleach for this!


Retrobrite uses hydrogen peroxide, a catalyst, and UV light to react specifically with the bromine compounds that produce the yellow colour. Done properly it won't modify the original plastic pigment, and there are plenty of pictures around of it being used on grey and coloured plastics successfully.

LambdaMikel

Quote from: pelrun on 02:50, 24 January 18and there are plenty of pictures around of it being used on grey and coloured plastics successfully.


yes, saw lots of pictures. i know it works well on abs. however, my question was more specific - has anybody here actually done it on old-style high cpc 464 keys? (i am not sure it even is abs)


also - do i have to mix it myself, or does anybody know a source for purchasing it?

HAL6128

Quote from: pelrun on 02:50, 24 January 18
Retrobrite uses hydrogen peroxide, a catalyst, and UV light to react specifically with the bromine compounds that produce the yellow colour. Done properly it won't modify the original plastic pigment, and there are plenty of pictures around of it being used on grey and coloured plastics successfully.

Women uses hydrogen peroxide to "bleech" their hairs. :) Or you can also clean or destroy bacterias in air conditions of cars with it. Nice, isn't it?!
...proudly supported Schnapps Demo, Pentomino and NQ-Music-Disc with GFX

Shining

I used hydrogen peroxide and xanthan gum on the housing of my plus and put it into the summer sun for some hours. It worked. But I did not try the keys....
TGS is back

Download my productions at:
cpc.scifinet.org

Duke

#7
Quote from: LambdaMikel on 03:00, 24 January 18
also - do i have to mix it myself, or does anybody know a source for purchasing it?

Try searching for "B Blonde" on ebay or the like, many use that instead with similar results.
"JEROME RUSSELL B BLONDE MAXIMUM LIFT CREAM PEROXIDE 40 VOL 12%" :)

Fwiw. I did try it on a CPC664 keyboard, the grey coloured keys turned out fine, however the blue keys, do look bleached and lost some of the blue intensity.
It probably should have had another run (ie. space has marks), but I was out of bblonde.


Chinnery

Quote from: LambdaMikel on 03:00, 24 January 18
yes, saw lots of pictures. i know it works well on abs. however, my question was more specific - has anybody here actually done it on old-style high cpc 464 keys? (i am not sure it even is abs)


also - do i have to mix it myself, or does anybody know a source for purchasing it?
I did restore a set of particularly manky CPC6128 keys a few years back. I put them all in a plastic jar and filled it with a mixture of hydrogen peroxide 40v (from ebay), distilled water (I think 25% peroxide and 75% distilled water) and a spoon Vanish (laundry detergent). I put the lid on and left it in the sun, shaking every so often to make sure all keys got an even dose of sunlight. If anything it worked too well, leaving a very faint speckled effect, but I am sure this is because I left it far too long. It was, however, a vast improvement on what they were like originally.

VincentGR

Yellowing returns after 3 years from my experience and in a month if a device is getting hot.

Chinnery

Quote from: VincentGR on 17:31, 24 January 18
Yellowing returns after 3 years from my experience and in a month if a device is getting hot.
Spraying with a clear lacquer which has UV-Protection is supposed to prevent this... or has that changed since I last brewed up a batch?

LambdaMikel

Quote from: Duke on 10:11, 24 January 18Try searching for "B Blonde" on ebay or the like, many use that instead with similar results.


Cool, will do that. I have a rather ugly 464 keyboard which is good for experimenting with that kind of stuff. I won't be sad if it gets damaged. Good thing with 464 keyboard is, only a couple of keys are grey / white anyway.

pelrun

Quote from: Chinnery on 17:59, 24 January 18
Spraying with a clear lacquer which has UV-Protection is supposed to prevent this... or has that changed since I last brewed up a batch?


I don't recommend doing this. It's not that the UV is yellowing the plastic again; it's because retrobrite can only treat the surface, and the yellow bromine compounds may be diffused deep into the plastic. After a while they migrate back out to the surface, which is accelerated if the plastic is warm.


The solution is to retrobrite it again - which you can't do if you've varnished them.

VincentGR

Exactly!
Heat is the problem.
There was an A500+ in a cupboard for two years in total darkness... guess what.

Bryce

Putting lacquer on keys is a really bad idea anyway, you'd end up with keys jamming all over the place.

Bryce.

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