Just collected this....

Started by CraigsBar, 20:25, 08 November 17

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CraigsBar

Quote from: CraigsBar on 20:45, 14 November 17
Test.... Yay! Rescued

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The relay clicks correctly correctly but the play button always works. Any ideas on that one?

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CraigsBar

I guess a short somewhere on the tape drive pcb in the vacinity of the relay, but I cannot see anything

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Bryce

Check the leaf switch that the play button actuates.

Bryce.

CraigsBar

Quote from: Bryce on 09:57, 15 November 17
Check the leaf switch that the play button actuates.

Bryce.
Yeah the leaf switch is working. Is it possible the relay has failed.... But still clicks?

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Bryce

Yes, but you can easily test that with a multimeter.

Bryce.

CraigsBar

Quote from: Bryce on 09:35, 16 November 17
Yes, but you can easily test that with a multimeter.

Bryce.
Which pins are which on the relay?

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Bryce

Can't remember, can you post a (reasonably sized :D ) picture of the top and bottom sides and I'll tell you.

Bryce.

CraigsBar

Quote from: Bryce on 14:57, 16 November 17
Can't remember, can you post a (reasonably sized :D ) picture of the top and bottom sides and I'll tell you.

Bryce.
Yep. I'll dismantle it again tonight

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Bryce

Of course. when it clicks there will be approx. 5V across the coil pins, so it should be easy to tell which pins are the coil and which are the contacts.

Bryce.

CraigsBar

Quote from: Bryce on 17:21, 16 November 17
Of course. when it clicks there will be approx. 5V across the coil pins, so it should be easy to tell which pins are the coil and which are the contacts.

Bryce.
OK. The eprom in it is a standard UK qwerty layout. I have sourced a qwerty keyboard to put in there so the symbols will all match up.

Now If I can get the tape behaving itself it'll be perfect.


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CraigsBar

Quote from: CraigsBar on 15:43, 16 November 17
Yep. I'll dismantle it again tonight

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Sorry this took longer than planned but here is the photo of the tape board.



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Bryce

#36
Red is Coil Positive (5V), Black is Coil Negative (0V) and the two yellow ones are the switch contacts. Because the contacts will have some potential across them when the circuit is powered, to measure if they are working, don't use a continuity tester as it will probably always buzz due to the circuit current. Measure the voltage across the contacts and it should go to zero when the contacts close.

Bryce.

CraigsBar

Quote from: Bryce on 16:54, 24 November 17
Red is Coil Positive (5V), Black is Coil Negative (0V) and the two yellow ones are the switch contacts. Because the contacts will have some potential across them when the circuit is powered, to measure if they are working, don't use a continuity tester as it will probably always buzz due to the circuit current. Measure the voltage across the contacts and it should go to zero when the contacts close.

Bryce.
Thanks Dr. Bryce, I am just sat in ikea dublin to grab an inexpensive meal before I enter the over priced environment that is senna line to Holyhead. I'm back on Wednesday so will get measuring then. With the correct UK keyboard fitted today the machine is getting there.


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Bryce

Enjoy the Köttbullar. Let me know how it goes when you get back.

Bryce.

CraigsBar

Quote from: Bryce on 09:39, 27 November 17
Enjoy the Köttbullar. Let me know how it goes when you get back.

Bryce.
Back now. And I've replaced the relay but the issue is still the same. Any other ideas. I guess there is a short somewhere holding the remote circuit closed when it should be open by default.

Is there anything close to the ram on a cost down that could cause this? Since the only thing g I have done is socketed and new chips to get the machine booting.

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CraigsBar

New photos of the tape board and ram swap soldering.... Just in case

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CraigsBar

OK I fixed it! Traced the tracks and cables to a 2nd leaf switch behind the play key. It was not operating! Cleaned the contacts and straightened the springs so they actually separate and bingo.... Tap remote works perfectly once more.

Attached is the celebratory game. Loaded from tape of course.

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Bryce

So you were looking at the wrong leaf switch the whole time :D

Bryce.

CraigsBar

Quote from: Bryce on 09:53, 13 December 17
So you were looking at the wrong leaf switch the whole time :D

Bryce.
Yes. No body told me there were 2 a nice big obvious one. And teeny weeny one under the play button.

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Bryce

I didn't mention that there were two, but I definitely mentioned "the play button" :) Let me check....

http://www.cpcwiki.eu/forum/amstrad-cpc-hardware/just-collected-this/msg151846/#msg151846

Yup, as I thought :D

Bryce.

CraigsBar

Quote from: Bryce on 13:53, 13 December 17
I didn't mention that there were two, but I definitely mentioned "the play button" :) Let me check....

http://www.cpcwiki.eu/forum/amstrad-cpc-hardware/just-collected-this/msg151846/#msg151846

Yup, as I thought :D

Bryce.


In my Defence the play button activates them both, one it opens the other it closes via an aluminium  rocker.
The one it closes (via the rocker) is large and obvious
The one it opens is tiny and well concealed!


Anyway, Yes @Bryce it seems you were correct (as normal ;)) and I have a working CPC 464 again... I even sourced a nearly New keyboard for it from a broken machine that was packaged up and never used. The Keyboard now matched the ROM which is always handy.


All in all the project CPC464 has cost me about 40eur (20 for the machine, 12 for the keyboard and 8 for the RAM & sockets) I am happy with that :)
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bjt

I have a cost down 464 with X-Mem installed internally, works fine. Just solder ribbon cable to the Centronics holes. The external edge connector will still work.

CraigsBar

Quote from: bjt on 11:52, 26 December 17
I have a cost down 464 with X-Mem installed internally, works fine. Just solder ribbon cable to the Centronics holes. The external edge connector will still work.
I have 2 symbiface 2 boards here, I was thinking about installing one of those internally, using the 12v from the ctm644 to power it. Is it easier to clear out the centonics holes and solder the wire through them, or just tack on to of the filled holes I wonder. I guess clearing out and poking the tinned wires through makes a better, more robust contact.

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bjt

Yep I cleared out the holes. Wasn't too difficult.

Bryce

Quote from: CraigsBar on 13:18, 26 December 17
I have 2 symbiface 2 boards here, I was thinking about installing one of those internally, using the 12v from the ctm644 to power it. Is it easier to clear out the centonics holes and solder the wire through them, or just tack on to of the filled holes I wonder. I guess clearing out and poking the tinned wires through makes a better, more robust contact.

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If you just tack them and a solder joint breaks then there's a high chance of causing a short. If it's worth doing, it's worth doing properly.

Bryce.

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