MiST Mod

[Bryce]

My fault for saying polarity when I actually meant gender.

Bryce.

[Gryzor]

Of course it's your fault, didn't say it was mine

[Bryce]

Hmmmm, just realised (while swapping the VGA socket), that I also haven't included an Audio Out socket... Oops, some changes need to be made. 

Bryce.

[Gryzor]

Ooops

Just remember to put the Mist board inside, ok?

[Bryce]

Ooops

Just remember to put the Mist board inside, ok?

MiST Board?? What MiST Boa... Shit! That's why I still have so much spare space inside!!

Bryce.

[Gryzor]

Well, feel free to go full steam ahead with your original plan to fill it with gold bullion

[Bryce]

Well, feel free to go full steam ahead with your original plan to fill it with gold bullion

Na, that idea died after I checked the postage costs to Greece.

Bryce.

[Gryzor]

Duuuude, I told you, that's on me! Don't worry!!!

[Bryce]

Been a while since I got anything done on this, due to repair jobs, but this (and last) weekend I managed to get a few hours in. First off I've fixed up the rear panel: Wrong VGA Socket and sound output missing.

[attach=2]

The fancy cut-out around the sound socket isn't so that it looks good, it's so that I have as much surface as possible to bond the plastic when I install it
Next up I made the "harness". This is a job I hate doing, fiddly wire soldering that takes ages. Done:

[attach=3]

I've used connectors on every connection instead of soldering anything, which means that the top cover of the SF354 can be completely removed if needed. The buttons / LEDs will need to be soldered, but they are mounted in the bottom half of the case.

I still need to add the power socket. The MiST offers two options. Power through USB or a standard power socket. I still have to add the socket and according to the schematics, I need to move the 0R bridge from R2 to R1 to divert the power tracks to the correct socket. I've already removed the black gunk to get at R1. For the power switch I've just wired the new rear panel switch in series, so the PCB switch doesn't get touched, it's just left ON all the time.

[attach=4]

Bryce.

[Gryzor]

Ohhhh yeah. Every time you post here I drop everything I'm doing to check it out, and I'm never disapointed


Does the VGA ribbon need to be so long?

[Bryce]

The VGA needs to loop over the MiST PCB, so yes. It could possibly be 20mm shorter, but I didn't want to add any unnecessary strain to the cable. Pin 9 is not connected by the way.

Bryce.

[Gryzor]

Ahhh I see, I wouldn't imagine it needs to be *that* long...

[Bryce]

It looks long because the other fly-leads are pretty short, but it's not that long in reality. I'll take a picture of it all connected and show you.

Bryce.

Edit: Quick (blurred) picture of the panel connected. As you can see, the cable isn't much longer than it needs to be. The SD expansion will need to fold over this connection too.

[Gryzor]

Ah there's a fold too. Indeed it looks just perfect. And actually it seems the SF is a near-perfect fit for the MiST after all, who would've thought, it looked pretty big at first!


This is...a big power plug!

[Bryce]

This is...a big power plug!

It's the exact same size[NB]It's not far away [/NB], voltage and polarity as the CPC power plug so that you only need one PSU

Bryce.

[Gryzor]

Oh yes, I know, I meant the plug though, not the socket. Or is that not a plug, the one sitting on top of the board's center

[Bryce]

Yes, that's the power plug. The footprint on the MiST PCB is for the socket to this connector, so I don't have a choice in what connector I use.

Bryce.

[Gryzor]

Easily the most waste of space then

[Bryce]

I could leave off the cover like I did on the USB connectors, but I don't like to leave the main power wires uncovered.

Bryce.

[Gryzor]

Ah yes, that's good

[Bryce]

Unfortunately this weekend wasn't a hardware weekend, life just got in the way, but I did get to do a few small jobs on the MiST Mod. I moved bridge from R2 to R1 and installed the power socket:

[attach=2]

I also mounted the SD slot expansion on the riser board. Sorry all you hotglue fans, I went for a rather unconventional method. The slot is soldered in place using wires. This means it's easily removed in needed. I will post a personal apology on the "We love hotglue Forum" (I'm sure there's one somewhere):

[attach=3]

Now all that's left to do is sort out the buttons and LEDs. The buttons are the hard part. I need to be 100% sure that my method will work before I cut the eject button in three, so I'm taking my time with the planning.

Bryce.

[Gryzor]

Life got in the way? What life?


The wire/solder solution looks ace indeed! Even if with use the solder breaks and it starts moving I can fix it myself...


What might the issue be with the buttons? I had the impression it was a simple case, or I'm missing something? Or do you mean the plastic itself?


Thanks, btw I know I'm not saying it enough...

[Bryce]

There are two problems with the buttons. One, the original button doesn't get properly guided by the faceplate. All of it's support/guiding came from the metal of the floppy drive (which is obviously no longer present). This means that the buttons could turn and generally "float" at the moment which would look shit. I want them to still be neatly lined up even if it is split into three. The second problem is getting them to stay connected to the button inside. The type of button I wanted to use has a small plastic (looks like ABS) shaft - the same type as those mounted on the MiST, just longer, which isn't very good for glueing to and can turn as it wishes. It's no good having a fancy three way button is it's going to look crap.

Bryce.

[Gryzor]

Ah, so it is the plastics; my first thought was you were talking about the linking of the buttons.


Funny thing is, when you first said you were going to use the button I thought "wow, that sounds hard, but if he says so..."

[Bryce]

Small update. Found better buttons and did some trials today. These buttons can't spin and have a better shaft for mounting to. Here's the first "position trial". I'll make this permanent later and then I can finally cut the original button

[attach=2]

[attach=3]

Stay tuned...

Bryce.