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avatar_Gryzor

Gotek USB in a CPC6128

Started by Gryzor, 17:01, 18 March 14

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Guy0me

#225
I'm not proud of what i do you can call me the Amstrad butcher  :-X i have to cut some plastic inside the CPC for the gotek to be fitted inside the beast..and glue some others plastic parts..
It's a lot more easier in a CPC Plus so if i can advise everybody "Do Not plug a Gotek inside a CPC Old it's a mess !"  :'( better using it external i guess..
Anyway my CPC Old is still alive  ;)

a7mag3ddon

Looks very neat and tidy. I didnt modify my CPC.

bjt



Quote from: Yrouel on 16:23, 22 June 15

I have mine working with M0 and DS0

Thanks for the info. What does M0 do?

Yrouel

#228
Quote from: bjt on 18:56, 22 June 15

Thanks for the info. What does M0 do?

I have no idea to be honest. I initially used my Gotek in my Amiga 600 until the DDI-1 clone arrived. I had troubles with the very first HxC firmware release and while troubleshooting I tried without the M0 set and the Amiga had issues with that so I left it set and that carried to the CPC aswell. And it's working fine, except the bug in the latest release which I bet will be resolved pretty quickly anyway.

Guy0me

#229
Quote from: bjt on 18:56, 22 June 15

Thanks for the info. What does M0 do?
The MO is Motor if i'm correct it does the ready signal , if you don't use it you got a disk missing

Token

Maybe I'll redo it and add a LED display. I don't really need it with 15 slots. I'm thinking to add a sound buzzer.
I used a broken floppy I couldn't fix, so no mod inside the CPC case. Small 3 digit LED had a problem when I bought it from China. Sometime only 2 digit works like here.
(bad quality, did it too fast)


bjt

Re M0, seems to work without though :-?

Audronic

#232
@ bjt
The button on the left of the DDI-1 Compatible is a Reset Button..

Ray
Procrastinators Unite,
If it Ain't Broke PLEASE Don't Fix it.
I keep telling you I am Not Pedantic.
As I Live " Down Under " I Take my Gravity Tablets and Wear my Magnetic Boots to Keep me from Falling off.

pelrun

#233
None of the jumpers are the ready signal; instead they're the drive select signal.

If you jumper MO, then the gotek will respond every time the CPC accesses a drive (turns the drive MOtors on), which is a bad thing if you've got two drives connected!

Instead you'll want to jumper S0 or S1 depending on which one makes the Gotek respond correctly as A: or B:.

bjt

Hmm. The reset button on my DDI-1 doesn't work. I bet the bus reset pin on the edge connector isn't making a good connection (assuming that's what it uses).


On topic, the Gotek is working really well with the DDI-1 now. Downgrading to the second-to-latest firmware fixed the problems with the file manager. I'll add a buzzer to get some seek noises next.

Audronic

#235
@ bjt


a link to the Amstrad DDI CLONE ASSEMBLY document will show the wiring of the board (double click the pictures)


Dropbox - Amstrad DDI CLONE ASSEMBLY.rtfd


Oops the Zip Might be better


https://www.dropbox.com/s/x6yt1lv5l68pa24/Amstrad%20DDI%20CLONE%20ASSEMBLY.rtfd.zip?dl=0


Good Luck     Ray
Procrastinators Unite,
If it Ain't Broke PLEASE Don't Fix it.
I keep telling you I am Not Pedantic.
As I Live " Down Under " I Take my Gravity Tablets and Wear my Magnetic Boots to Keep me from Falling off.

Yrouel

Quote from: bjt on 10:40, 24 June 15
On topic, the Gotek is working really well with the DDI-1 now. Downgrading to the second-to-latest firmware fixed the problems with the file manager. I'll add a buzzer to get some seek noises next.


About the buzzer. Wait. Jeff mentioned that he wanted to add support for it using some free GPIO pin on the gotek instead of having to do the bodgy mod that's necessary now.

bjt

Cool. Thanks for info. Fixed the reset button on my DDI-1, one of the wires wasn't soldered to the button properly.

Bryce

Quote from: bjt on 10:23, 25 June 15
Cool. Thanks for info. Fixed the reset button on my DDI-1, one of the wires wasn't soldered to the button properly.

Did you build it yourself? Surely these were tested before they were sent out?  :o

Bryce.

bjt

No I purchased it assembled. Not sure what happened, but no big deal.

atom

Hello guy,

i would like to have this firmware to flash my Gotek usb drive, can someone tell where to find it????

or what do i have to do to get the firmware!?

Thank you all!

Token

Hi Atom
You need to contact the author. Then you can buy and download the firmware that you'll flash. (10 euro/PayPal) USB update are free.
http://hxc2001.free.fr/imiel.htm


CraigsBar

Quote from: Token on 15:19, 17 July 15
Hi Atom
You need to contact the author. Then you can buy and download the firmware that you'll flash. (10 euro/PayPal) USB update are free.
http://hxc2001.free.fr/imiel.htm

Hmm, By the time you have bought a Gotek,
Paid to have an HxC firmware,
Bought an LCD Display kit,
Bought a buzzer kit
I think you'll have spent more than buying an HxC in the first place. and personally I'd say an flush fit SD card is a nicer solution when compared to a pokey out USB Drive.
IRC:  #Retro4All on Freenode

a7mag3ddon

Fit the USB internally.

Yrouel

Quote from: CraigsBar on 19:35, 17 July 15
Hmm, By the time you have bought a Gotek,
Paid to have an HxC firmware,
Bought an LCD Display kit,
Bought a buzzer kit
I think you'll have spent more than buying an HxC in the first place. and personally I'd say an flush fit SD card is a nicer solution when compared to a pokey out USB Drive.


LCD and buzzer aren't obbligatory and can be found in a junk pile of electronics relatively easy if you don't want to buy them. I took my LCD from a copier and I have more then one buzzer around from some other scrap electronic boards (but I'm waiting an official support of it in the firmware to eventually fit one)

Token

Quote from: CraigsBar on 19:35, 17 July 15
Hmm, By the time you have bought a Gotek,
Paid to have an HxC firmware,
Bought an LCD Display kit,
Bought a buzzer kit
I think you'll have spent more than buying an HxC in the first place. and personally I'd say an flush fit SD card is a nicer solution when compared to a pokey out USB Drive.

I don't think so.

I didn't add any LCD display, I don't need it with 15 slots. I don't even make a big use of the small 3 digits display.

The Gotek is faster than the HxC, I have a slim version. It's hard to come back.
I'll not sell it because it can be usefull with some obscure hardware. (not just computers).

Also I don't need to convert any files with the Gotek and my Atari ST.

Btw a buzzer cost 1€ from China, the HxC with LCD is 70 € without shipping...

atom

Hello,

thanks for the link.



atom

Hello,

i have paid 20 Euro for the Gotek
4 Euro for the lcd Display.
and i am waiting the replay from the Hxc-owner to get the firmware!


Yrouel

#248
Quote from: atom on 07:09, 18 July 15
i have paid 20 Euro for the Gotek

Same here.
A piece of advice for anyone who's looking for one on ebay: just use the words "floppy emulator" instead of gotek to find the cheapest options (around 20 euros including shipping costs if any) usually from China or thereabouts.
However look carefully at the picture before buying, there are lesser models (and only moderately cheaper) that lack the front 7 segment display or have only a 2 digit one
You want the ones that have a 3 digit front display and, if specified, are model SFR1M44-U100 (white) or SFR1M44-U100K (black).
The fact that some might be marketed for specific applications like Yamaha or Korg instruments doesn't matter, the hardware is the same and you will be changing the firmware anyway.

260Z

Quote from: atom on 07:09, 18 July 15
Hello,

i have paid 20 Euro for the Gotek
4 Euro for the lcd Display.
and i am waiting the replay from the Hxc-owner to get the firmware!

Hi ,

How did you go with getting your Gotek running ?

Cheers,
Robert

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