I recently grabbed a 3.5" drive from my lovely box of random bits and bobs in order to use with the CPC. Like many 3.5" drives, this one does not provide a ready signal to Pin 34 by default so we have to create one. You can connect a drive to the CPC without this by connecting Pin 34 (the ready signal) to Pin 33, but this makes the CPC think the drive is ready all of the time which works beautifully until you type CAT without a disc inserted. The computer will appear to hang (in fact it will respond if you place a disc in the drive) and soft resetting the machine doesn't help - the FDC is stuck. The only solution is a hard reset.
To make the Sony MPF 920 3.5" drive behave in exactly the same way as Amstrad's 3" drive we need to perform a few modifications starting by opening up the bottom of the drive (3 screws) which will allow you to remove the metal panel and reveal the main PCB. When you open the drive the main PCB should look something like this:
(http://www.endangermice.co.uk/images/DriveMod_0.jpg) (http://www.endangermice.co.uk/images/DriveMod_0.jpg)
1. Cut the trace from pin 34:
(http://www.endangermice.co.uk/images/DriveMod_1.jpg) (http://www.endangermice.co.uk/images/DriveMod_1.jpg)
2. Hook Pin 34 to the +5v of the floppy detection switch circled here:
(http://www.endangermice.co.uk/images/DriveMod_2.jpg) (http://www.endangermice.co.uk/images/DriveMod_2.jpg)
You should end up with something that looks a little like this (excuse my terrible glue gun skills):
(http://www.endangermice.co.uk/images/DriveMod_3.jpg) (http://www.endangermice.co.uk/images/DriveMod_3.jpg)
When you're done, put everything back together (don't forget to remove the connection between pin 33 and pin 34 on the ribbon cable or the drive will return a read fail when no disc is inserted) voila, a CPC that no longer hangs when there is no floppy disc inserted and better still, provides you with the somewhat more useful disc missing message:
(http://www.endangermice.co.uk/images/DriveMod_4.jpg) (http://www.endangermice.co.uk/images/DriveMod_4.jpg)
Job done :)
Nice explanation, and photos that are in focus! A rarity among disc conversion guides :D
Bryce.
Thanks Bryce, I took a load of pictures trying to ensure that they were in reasonable focus - not so easy using an IPhone and trying to balance everything as you take the shot ;). Hopefully this guide will be useful to someone!
Oh this is great, hope it will be of service to someone, somewhere!
A few points:
-Why the MPF920? Any special reason for it or it just happened to be lying around?
-Would be better to insert the pictures as "expandable". They are great though!
-A more general note, aren't such guides more suitable for the wiki instead of the forum? Just asking... can I copy it to the wiki?
We already have this (half finished) page here: Modify PC floppy drives - CPCWiki - The Ultimate Amstrad CPC Community & (http://www.cpcwiki.eu/index.php/Modify_PC_floppy_drives)
This info should definitely be added to it.
Bryce.
Edit: Some further information on the MPF 920: JC30 and JC31 select whether the disc acts as DS0 or DS1. If you are using this drive internally, you should remove the JC31 bridge and solder it onto the JC30 pads.
The 920 was indeed a drive I had lying around. Since all drives are different! The guide is specific to that one but hopefully has enough background info to allow others to figure out how to modify different models (I figured out the Sony it was pretty straightforward).
The images are hosted on my web space and linked from there. I tried uploading them to the forum but I always get an error saying they have failed security. I'm not sure whether I can make linked ones expandable?
You can of course copy it to the wiki. I would have added it there but I don't have permission. I presume only the select few can add wiki pages...?
Thanks for the positive feedback, I appreciate it :) .
Cheers,
Damien
Hm, let's try uploading one of your pictures:
[attach=2]
[EDIT] Huh, it worked. Can you try doing it again and telling me the exact message you got?
As for the wiki, of course not!!! It's open to everyone and anyone, but you need to create an account! Why did you get the idea that it's closed?
I'll try again when I get back to the UK (in Paris right now). The first few pictures I uploaded worked fine but then it stopped working. I did do a search for the problem and it looks like a random bug that can sometimes occur though no one has been able to find out why yet!
I figured the wiki might only be opened to certain users so as to ensure that a quality is met. I tried logging in with my forum credentials but that didn't work - I guess I need to register separately.
I'll have a look when I get back home and would be delighted to make it a wiki article.
Yup, there was an issue with MIME checking and whatnot, and the devs had said, in essence, "cannot be solved, rewriting, wait for a next version". I relaxed security controls, and I have not seen it since, but let's check it out. Sometimes just opening the offending file in a program and saving it again worked...
I'll have a look. Makes sense, I write code for a living so I know how easy it is to let some bugs slip in - none of us are perfect and sometimes the problem isn't as easy to solve as people think!
Not a problem, let's check it out when you get back (have a great time, btw!) and we'll see. Tomorrow I'll create an article in the wiki, just remember to let me know what problems you encountered with writing one -if any.
I've had pictures in the past that refused to upload as jpg, but if you converted them to png they worked fine. I just assumed it was a bug and I convert everything to png now.
Bryce.
Nice hack! :) I've also got a Sony MPF but I'm hoping to convert it to a high density Amiga drive. A Samsung SDF-321 that has a jumper changed from DC to RDY will do for my Amstrad needs.
According to a thread in English Amiga Board, another way to provide the RDY in Sony MPF is to route a wire from IC21 to pin 34 and of course to cut the trace on the PCB.
http://eab.abime.net/showthread.php?t=43265 (http://eab.abime.net/showthread.php?t=43265)
Hi! please allow me to relaunch this topic, as I'm trying to modify this exact type of disk drive, the Sony MPF 920 (it's the one I've got available) in order to use it internally in a driveless CPC I just got.
The problem is, I can't see the pictures attached in the first post by Endangermice. And, as I'm a mere user with no knowledges of electronics at all, I'm completely lost without the "do it like that step by step, little fellow".
I also tried to find the topic at the wiki, since it's mentioned in this thread that the info would be added there, but I couldn't find it.
Are these pictures available anywhere? Could you please tell me what should I modify in my Sony MPF 920 drive to use it as an internal drive in a CPC?
Thank you very much!!!!!
Take a look at the picture here: Sony MPF920-E E/131 modified to work with the Amiga (http://jope.fi/drives/mpf920-e/)
Bryce.
So if I understand this, for CPC drive mods all you need to do is find the disk detect switch, and as long as it changes from 5V to GND when a disk is inserted, you can just wire the output of the switch to pin 34?
This is great, as it means you can mod drives without needing data sheets for the controller ICs on the drive!
I didn't know it was this simple...
Some drives are even simpler. They have a jumper for DS:0 / DS:1 and another jumper to determine whether the signal is "Disk Change" or "Disk Ready".
Bryce.
And some older drives are even more simple, you just plug them in an they work without any modifications. I just think it would be a good idea to have a list of them on the CPC Wiki.
I remember couple of them, but have to check asap.
Great, thank you very much! I understand that I should make the same modifications to make it work with the CPC, right? Thanks again!!!
Hello everybody i'm looking something about adding a Sony MPF920(2001) or MPF920-E(2008) in a 6128+ and i found this post but the screen capture are gone :( .
Is it possible to have those pictures ? Some of you are saying about put the article on the wiki but i found nothing about it !
Thank you guys !
Quote from: guyome on 11:02, 06 February 15
Hello everybody i'm looking something about adding a Sony MPF920(2001) or MPF920-E(2008) in a 6128+ and i found this post but the screen capture are gone :( .
Is it possible to have those pictures ? Some of you are saying about put the article on the wiki but i found nothing about it !
Thank you guys !
Me too! Just received a sony mpf920 today and would love to see those pics if they're available.
If one of you can take a decent hi-res picture of the PCB, I'll do a new description-picture for you.
Bryce.
Quote from: Bryce on 10:38, 10 February 15
If one of you can take a decent hi-res picture of the PCB, I'll do a new description-picture for you.
Bryce.
Quote from: Bryce on 10:38, 10 February 15
If one of you can take a decent hi-res picture of the PCB, I'll do a new description-picture for you.
Bryce.
That was quick! Ok, here's the quick answer:
Getting a Ready signal:
Step 1 - Cut the track going to the headers pin 34 (marked with x in bottom left corner)
Step 2 - Connect pin 18 of IC2 to pin 34 of the header (shown as red line)
Making the Drive A: (If you want to use the drive as B: then this step isn't required)
Remove the bridge (black component with "0" on top) from JC31 and use it or a short piece of wire to short the JC30 contacts.
The other drive you posted seems to be exactly the same, just the layout orientation has been turned 90°, so this will work on both versions.
Bryce.
Edit: Just realised that the blurred first picture uses a different IC, can you possibly take a better picture of that drive or let me know the part number of IC2.
Bryce, your memory is fading away ;D
We talked about this drive one year ago : Thinking of buying this 3/1/2 inch drive (http://www.cpcwiki.eu/forum/amstrad-cpc-hardware/thinking-of-buying-this-312-inch-drive/msg73945/#msg73945)
And the solution you propose will not work on a CPC :P
Quote from: gerald on 11:42, 10 February 15
Bryce, your memory is fading away ;D
We talked about this drive one year ago : Thinking of buying this 3/1/2 inch drive (http://www.cpcwiki.eu/forum/amstrad-cpc-hardware/thinking-of-buying-this-312-inch-drive/msg73945/#msg73945)
And the solution you propose will not work on a CPC :P
Gerald you find me lol , I asked on this forum just to be sure but i trusted you. ;)
Quote from: gerald on 11:42, 10 February 15
Bryce, your memory is fading away ;D
We talked about this drive one year ago : Thinking of buying this 3/1/2 inch drive (http://www.cpcwiki.eu/forum/amstrad-cpc-hardware/thinking-of-buying-this-312-inch-drive/msg73945/#msg73945)
And the solution you propose will not work on a CPC :P
Really??? I really am getting old then! No memory of that. Did we find out why it doesn't work? Brain-fade......
Bryce.
Edit: Ok, read the thread. So you'd need to add some sort of latch to get it to work properly. Pity.
In my defence, that thread is over a year old! You don't expect my weary old brain to store thread details from that far back! I can just barely remember what I had for breakfast this morning!
Ca ressemble a de l'amiga mod, mais la soluce est comme la vérité. (ailleurs...)
-_-
Yes, it is very similar to the Amiga mod, but the Amiga Shugart also isn't to the standard and expects different signals to the CPC.
Bryce.
don't think the wiki has been updated to include the sony FDD yet.
Or did I miss it, hmm must look again, again... :laugh:
I have a solution to obtaining the disk ready status!
cut track to pin 34, locate HD switch and cut both tracks (this function is not needed, so just bridge the tracks to make the drive permanently stay in low density state)
now we have an available disk detect switch!
solder 2 wires from the switch to pins 33 & 34.
done!
well thats my thoughts and I will be busting out the tools to check it works later on ;D
Quote from: Lazy Dude on 12:14, 24 February 15
I have a solution to obtaining the disk ready status!
cut track to pin 34, locate HD switch and cut both tracks (this function is not needed, so just bridge the tracks to make the drive permanently stay in low density state)
now we have an available disk detect switch!
solder 2 wires from the switch to pins 33 & 34.
done!
well thats my thoughts and I will be busting out the tools to check it works later on ;D
I tried that some time ago on a drive. It did not work..... But the drive in question was of questionable quality anyway. Lol.
Look at this page (have it translated by google):
http://quasar.cpcscene.net/doku.php?id=electronique:lecteur_3.5&s (http://quasar.cpcscene.net/doku.php?id=electronique:lecteur_3.5&s)
About 1/3 down is a small circuit with a transistor and a few logic gates which will provide a clean ready signal, only when the proper drive is selected, using the disc-in switch if your drive has one or the density detection switch (which you don't need anymore).
I remember building my 3 1/2 with this circuit, it's perfectly working. I could dig it out and open it if needed.
Here is my mod Sony for DDI Clone
DDI floppy mod (http://www.eightbitclone.com/floppymod.html)
What does it do? Does it switch Ready constantly to on or does make a true Ready signal?
It would give a Ready signal when a disk is physically in the drive.
Bryce.
Even when the drive is not selected ...
Yes, that's the problem. The schematic on the French site linked above is a much cleaner solution.
Bryce.
Quote from: Bryce on 21:08, 24 February 15
Yes, that's the problem. The schematic on the French site linked above is a much cleaner solution.
Yes, I've discovered this.
That's roughly what I've done on my own MPF920. I am using smd single gate for the or and a tristate driver instead of the transistor. And also, I use a spindle motor controller as ready information.
Cleanest solution possible.
Even if less "perfect" HD/SD switch solution is working fine as input to the gate , though.
When you put your drive in a clean box (external CDROM burner or whatever) you have all room to include a small perfboard with the few components on it.
/Drive Select 1 -> [HD/SD Switch] -> Diode -> /Ready
No gates required, just cutting some tracks, one diode, two wires and that's it.
Edit: can't remember which diode model I used, but it was nothing fancy.
Quote from: Grim on 06:18, 25 February 15
/Drive Select 1 -> [HD/SD Switch] -> Diode -> /Ready
No gates required, just cutting some tracks, one diode, two wires and that's it.
Wouldn't Ready be there immediately after you select the drive?
If yes, then this is problematic since the drive may not be ready for some more milliseconds. Then we have the problem.
Dunno, there might be some quirks, but I've been using 3.5 drives modded that way for nearly a decade without noticing any particular problem (eg. Orion Prime, Batman Forever, Phortem and other stuffs with exotic loaders all work fine).
Check Symbos or FutureOS ;)
Quote from: TFM on 18:15, 25 February 15
Wouldn't Ready be there immediately after you select the drive?
No, it will only pull ready low when the drive is selected and the switch is closed (and the diode polarized the right way ;) , anode on the ready side).
But is the drive already spinning quick enough, to be "Ready" for a data transfer?
FutureOS for example does not wait a defined time to start reading, it just waits for the drive being ready. That principle was later adopted for SymbOS too. I hope I made my self clear at which point I'm driving. If the Ready signal is there a bit before the drive is really ready, then there is a problem.
Quote from: TFM on 21:46, 25 February 15
But is the drive already spinning quick enough, to be "Ready" for a data transfer?
Who knows :D
Quote from: TFM on 21:46, 25 February 15
FutureOS for example does not wait a defined time to start reading, it just waits for the drive being ready. That principle was later adopted for SymbOS too. I hope I made my self clear at which point I'm driving. If the Ready signal is there a bit before the drive is really ready, then there is a problem.
I'm on your side !
Add a fat capacitor and another diode to delay the ready signal.
Bryce.
Or handle the FDC error properly :)
Quote from: Grim on 22:07, 25 February 15
Or handle the FDC error properly :)
See, that's the problem: The drive gives false information (Ready if not Ready!), that screws the FDC. ;)
In your case it seems to work. Have you ever had an error with SymbOS?
Bumping this thread, because I happen to have the same drive. I've modded it seemingly successfully, albeit not exactly as explained on the Internet. I do have a few questions about it and the various schematics posted in this thread.
I started by following this guide Sony MPF920-E E/131 modified to work with the Amiga (http://jope.fi/drives/mpf920-e/), but it didn't work at all, I kept having a "disc missing" error. I have to say I didn't follow it completely: I didn't bridge SW3 to block the HD/DD verification, nor did I change the JC30/31 jumper.
- Can I just solder the switch and be done with covering HD disc holes with tape? Or do I still need tape for Windows and cpcdiscxp?
- Do I still have to change the JC30/31 jumpers if I don't want to use the drive as A? Does it even matter when I can use a switch on the cable?
What I did instead is that I used the disc-in switch to ground pin34. When a disc is in, the switch closes and pulls this part of the circuit low. By soldering a wire to the not-ground side of the switch, inserting a disc simply grounds pin34 as if there was a bridge on the cable between pins 33 and 34. This work fine, although AMSDOS and CP/M can get a bit confused between the two discs. Disckit3 has no problem pointing at the guilty drive when it asks for both to be empty after an operation though.
Earlier in this thread, this page was linked Lecteur 3"1/2 sur CPC [Quasar Net] (http://quasar.cpcscene.net/doku.php?id=electronique:lecteur_3.5&s), and specifically these schematics were mentioned:
(http://quasar.cpcscene.net/lib/exe/fetch.php?cache=cache&media=electronique:schema_ready2.png)
I'd have no problem implementing it if needed, but I have a lot of trouble understanding it, especially in relation to Drive 1. This is pin12 on the cable, right? Can someone explain what "Drive 1 select" does and what are the different outputs for the ready signal? One can use the disc-in switch, then the switch and 10kohms resistor are not needed, the gate is connected to the 5V side of the switch. This is what I would do.
If it's not already obvious, I have no background in electronics. I'm learning by reading stuff on the internet and tinkering with old circuits and asking stupid questions.
Most of the signals are shared between both drives; the Drive 1/0 select pins tell the drives which one the CPC is trying to talk to. Deselected drives will ignore anything they see. The ABBA switch flips the select signal between the drives.
The switch in the circuit you posted *is* the disc-inserted switch; it's not meant to be an additional component. The resistor absolutely has to be there; you can't just go 5v->disc-in switch->gate, otherwise the input to the gate will be completely indeterminate when the switch is open. If there's already a resistor to ground connected to the switch on the drive pcb then you don't need another one, though.
The end result of the circuit is that the ready signal is pulled to ground only when the CPC is talking to the drive *and* the disc is inserted. Otherwise the signal is left alone so that it can be used by the other drive.
Quote from: pelrun on 20:40, 20 March 16The switch in the circuit you posted *is* the disc-inserted switch; it's not meant to be an additional component. The resistor absolutely has to be there; you can't just go 5v->disc-in switch->gate, otherwise the input to the gate will be completely indeterminate when the switch is open. If there's already a resistor to ground connected to the switch on the drive pcb then you don't need another one, though.
But that's not what is described on the original page though?
(google translate below)
QuoteDeux solutions s'offrent à vous. La plus simple, mais pas forcément la plus évidente, consiste à localiser l'interrupteur de détection de présence de discs d'origine de votre lecteur 3"1/2 puis à détourner ses connexions avec le reste de l'électronique du lecteur pour l'insérer dans notre circuit "Ready". Il est important de ne pas isoler l'interrupteur du reste du lecteur car le signal qu'il envoie est parfois indispensable au bon fonctionnement de ce dernier : brancher vous en parallèle, ne coupez pas les pistes. Généralement l'interrupteur lui-même est facile à localiser, il est à l'avant du lecteur. En revanche, il doit être accessible au fer à souder et ça c'est une autre histoire... Dans le cas où vous repiquez les signaux de l'interrupteur d'origine, il ne faut bien sûr pas câbler le 5V et la résistance indiqué sur les schéma ci-dessus, mais relier directement le signal à l'entrée de la porte logique.
QuoteTwo solutions Available to you. The easiest, but not necessarily the most obvious, is to locate the original discs presence detection switch your 3 "1/2 drive and divert its connections with the rest of the drive electronics to insert it in our "Ready" circuit. It is important not to isolate the switch from the rest of the drive because the signal it sends is sometimes essential to the proper functioning of the latter: you connect in parallel, do not cut the tracks. Generally the switch itself is easy to locate, it is at the front of the player. However, it must be accessible to the soldering iron and that's another story ... If you prick the origin of the switch signals, do not wire the 5V and the resistor shown the above scheme, but directly connect the signal at the input of the logic gate.
Quote from: pelrun on 20:40, 20 March 16Most of the signals are shared between both drives; the Drive 1/0 select pins tell the drives which one the CPC is trying to talk to. Deselected drives will ignore anything they see. The ABBA switch flips the select signal between the drives.
Does it mean that if change the jumper to Drive 0, I would have to ground pin12 to have it back to B? This internal jumper, along with the pin11/12 cable switch, the internal ABBA switch, the cable twisting, etc. are a bit confusing to be honest.
Quote from: pelrun on 20:40, 20 March 16The end result of the circuit is that the ready signal is pulled to ground only when the CPC is talking to the drive *and* the disc is inserted. Otherwise the signal is left alone so that it can be used by the other drive.
I think this is what I want. It would prevent AMSDOS to hang when I poll an empty A with a disc in B. Right?
Quote from: khaz on 21:02, 20 March 16
But that's not what is described on the original page though?
(google translate below)
Does it mean that if change the jumper to Drive 0, I would have to ground pin12 to have it back to B? This internal jumper, along with the pin11/12 cable switch, the internal ABBA switch, the cable twisting, etc. are a bit confusing to be honest.
Basically what the page is saying is that if you use the original disc-insertion switch, then the 5v and pulldown resistor are already present (because the original drive hardware uses it) so you don't have to add it yourself.
As for the drive select - each drive chooses which signal it listens to. Either it's hardwired, or there's a jumper that lets you select it. You need to ensure that no matter what is happening with an ABBA switch or a cable twist, that the two drives are configured to use opposite signals. If both drives are hardwired to the same select signal, then you need a cable twist (which swaps the DS0 and DS1 wires) to flip one drive. The ABBA switch then flips both drives.
QuoteI think this is what I want. It would prevent AMSDOS to hang when I poll an empty A with a disc in B. Right?
Yes, that's the intent. Hardwiring the ready signal to be always on means AMSDOS thinks there's a disc ready in A all the time, even when it's not true. Gating it with the drive select signal means that any other drives can correctly signal their own states to the CPC.
I have been using the Modifications to a Sony MPF-920 which works . (These are Zaxon's Modifications).
Dropbox - Amstrad 3.5" Floppy Mod (Sony MPF-920).zip (https://www.dropbox.com/s/wxm66vy245cf7bx/Amstrad%203.5%22%20Floppy%20Mod%20%28Sony%20MPF-920%29.zip?dl=0)
EDIT :- Changed Link
Good Luck Ray
Quote from: Audronic on 22:58, 20 March 16
I have been using the Modifications to a Sony MPF-920 which works . (These are Zaxon's Modifications).
Dropbox - Amstrad 3.5" Floppy Mod (Sony MPF-920).zip (https://www.dropbox.com/s/wxm66vy245cf7bx/Amstrad%203.5%22%20Floppy%20Mod%20%28Sony%20MPF-920%29.zip?dl=0)
EDIT :- Changed Link
Good Luck Ray
This is basically the mod I've done, but I'm using the disc-in switch instead. It does its purpose, but it's not ideal and is buggy when polling an empty A with a non-empty B.
Quote from: Bryce on 11:29, 10 February 15
That was quick! Ok, here's the quick answer:
Getting a Ready signal:
Step 1 - Cut the track going to the headers pin 34 (marked with x in bottom left corner)
Step 2 - Connect pin 18 of IC2 to pin 34 of the header (shown as red line)
Making the Drive A: (If you want to use the drive as B: then this step isn't required)
Remove the bridge (black component with "0" on top) from JC31 and use it or a short piece of wire to short the JC30 contacts.
The other drive you posted seems to be exactly the same, just the layout orientation has been turned 90°, so this will work on both versions.
Bryce.
Edit: Just realised that the blurred first picture uses a different IC, can you possibly take a better picture of that drive or let me know the part number of IC2.
This is the first mod I tried. Pin 18 on the IC2 doesn't give a "disc ready" signal. Pin 17 sort of does, but has the same limitations as a disc-in switch mod.
[edit] I'm not trying random pins, but I saw a mod that used this pin instead of 18. Can't find it again though.[/edit]
The IC is D9848N 6943A. It's still sold everywhere but I just can't find a datasheet or a pinout for it.
This should help with other drives http://freaknet.org/asbesto/roba/diskettes-jumpers.pdf (http://freaknet.org/asbesto/roba/diskettes-jumpers.pdf)
Sorry not useful info about the ontopic Sony drive....
I'll bump this topic again, as I have another problem related to the Disc Ready signal.
The screen jumps, one frame is desync, every time a drive is accessed. At first I thought it happened only in my newly modified drive, but I have tried several other drives that behave the same. Only the HxC is perfectly stable. Simply doing |A at boot makes it happen, but it also happen at every track change, and when I insert (but not when I eject) a disc.
I've tried with several drives, modded, unmodded, with the pin 34 cut (no "disc ready", nor "disc change" signals), with a normal cable and a cable with a shorted pin 33-34. In all these situations, without a disc in, there is no interference. With a disc in, the screen jumps when doing |A. It also jumps when I insert a disc and the motor is still running, but not when I eject the disc. No interferences happen at all if the drive isn't powered.
Trying to isolate the problem, I thought the interference happened when both the pin 34 is grounded and the motor is accessed, but only for the first 1ms or so. But it also happen when the trace to pin 34 is cut and there is no forced grounding of pin 34. Also the interference at the disc insertion (with a spinning motor) baffles me too.
Based on all this, I don't think getting a proper "disc ready" signal with the previously linked schematics will modify this behaviour. I'm still going to do it though, the chip is on its way, but I would love your input on this problem.
[edit]You know what, haha, nevermind. I just realised that my Scart cable was drawing its +5V for RGB switching from the same source as the CPC and the external drive. Accessing the motor made for a very temporary drop in power which confused my TV. I just tried with my original CTM644 and everything works fine! Silly me :D
@khaz (http://www.cpcwiki.eu/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=1619)
Can you adjust the Vertical hold on your Monitor ?? It may be that's the problem not the FDC components.
Good luck
Ray
It was totally the monitor. The cable I have plugs to the same power source for its RGB blanking signal, and when the drive motor draws some power, it confuses it. Nevermind!
Bumping the thread again, now that I have finally received my 74HC00[nb]All twenty of them. Does anyone want 19 SN74HC00N?[/nb]. I want to make sure I'm doing everything right.
So this schematics:
(http://quasar.cpcscene.net/lib/exe/fetch.php?cache=cache&media=electronique:schema_ready2.png)
I want to use the Sony MPF 920 switch for Disc In, which has ground on one side and the other side connects to some pin on a chip. Inserting a disc thus closes the circuit and grounds that pin. How can I wire it so it can be the switch on the schematics? I have one spare NAND gate on the chip so I suppose I should use it, but I'm confused how. The rest should be straightforward: Drive 1 Select is pin 12 of the drive, ready is pin 34, and Ground is wherever.
Useless bump, finally done it. The real problem was to find some space for the chip and the bunch of components inside the metal casing. I'm sure someone could make a tiny board with smt components that would make any drive give a real ready signal. There must be a market, especially for Amiga users.