Hi all,
I've been asked to build a few joystick testers for someone on another forum, so as I have to order boards and make a batch, I thought I'd ask here if anyone is interested in having one. It will be a small (about 3 x 5cm) PCB with a 9V battery at one end and a 9pin Sub-D at the other and lots of LEDs to show the directions/fire are working. It will test Atari type joysticks, both fire buttons (if the jostick has two) and the Auto-fire circuitry.
If anyone is interested, then let me know here so that I can judge the batch size.
Bryce.
Hi Bryce
It just so happens I'm working on building my own joystick lately, so I sure could use a way to test it safely before plugging it onto my precious CPC.
Count me in !
The person who asked me to build it has a similar situation. Firstly, nervous not to damage his valued collection, but also to check which is broken, the joystick or the joystick port. As he is a refurbisher/reseller, he also wants to be able to quickly test joysticks without having to fire up a computer and load a game (although thanks to Alan sugar, the game loading isn't necessary on our CPC'S :) ).
Bryce.
I think that's a handy thing to have si, as usual, count me in! ;D
Usually my joystick testing consists of throwing the thing against the wall or out the window. If it survives it's good, if it doesn't it never was. So far only the PacMan and Tomahawk series have passed this test.
...but for friends of friends who have dozens of random controllers, this is very useful... do count me in for one :)
The CPC's Joystick port is super save - just don't feed Power IN.
Now, to test joystick you need just to switch on the CPC and move they joystick. This will show you X, Z for the fire buttons and arrows for the four directions.
And if you really need to test Fire 3 (spare signal) then use the "Show keys" utility from the FutureOS System Utilities disc. :)
All correct, but the person who asked me to build them doesn't have a CPC, he specialises in Amiga hardware, which are known to have joystick port problems on several models, hence the need to establish if the problem is the joystick or the computer.
Bryce.
And in addition... I'm sure it will look damn great! :) :) :) (where is the thumbs up smiley when you need it?). :)
Unfortunately the schematic/layout software I use doesn't do fancy 3D renders of the device, but as soon as I have one built I'll post a picture of the real one.
Bryce.
Hi All
here is one I use, Purchased locally.
Ray
Looks neat! :)
Quote from: Audronic on 23:32, 07 November 18
Hi All
here is one I use, Purchased locally.
Ray
That's pretty much what my one will look like, however, mine will also be able to test the Auto-fire function which yours can't.
Bryce.
Also: put more lights on it.
Here's a sneak-preview of the board. It has 7 LEDs on it: 1x Power, 4x directions, 2x Fire. That enough for you @Gryzor (http://www.cpcwiki.eu/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=1) ?
I've kept it minimalistic at the moment, so power on/off is -> connecting the battery, but I have a feature on the PCB to allow a power switch to be added if required. It's 31mm x 46mm, so about the same size as the battery itself (A PP3 battery is 26x48). The battery tabs are mounted directly on the PCB so there's no straggling wires that tend to break off as soon as you put the device in a drawer. All the components are shorter than the connectors at each end, so they are well protected too.
It's also possible to mount the battery tabs downwards, so the PCB sits on the battery.
Bryce.
7 LEDs only? Pffft! Xmas is coming man, make it play some tunes and light them up in order!
Quote from: Gryzor on 13:55, 08 November 18
7 LEDs only? Pffft! Xmas is coming man, make it play some tunes and light them up in order!
It doesn't have a processor.
Bryce.
Excuses.
Count me in Bryce! :)
Yesterday the PCBs arrived. Unfortunately my supplier for the 9pin sub-d connectors messed up and sent me female instead of male connectors, but I had a spare connector so that I could at least build one. So here's what the finished product looks like. The small chip is a regulator so that autofire can also be tested. It has a yellow LED to remind you that you've left the battery connected, two red LEDs for fire 1/2/autofire and four green LEDs for the directions. I can do custom colours for those who have colour fetishes, but that will cost extra :D
I'll build the rest later and finish them when the correct connectors have arrived. From the battery/connector you can see approximately how big (small) it is. They are not all sold yet, so if you are still interested, then let me know. They will cost €19 each plus postage/paypal.
Bryce.
Nice thinking, keeping the LED on to remind you of the battery; although if you do forget it, it's game over (for the battery) pretty fast :D
Wouldn't it make sense to position the LEDs in a cross layout?
The battery would last around 120 Hours if you forgot to disconnect it, but only around 15 hours if autofire was switched on.
The LEDs are in a cross layout:
Bryce.
I don't know what the heck I was looking at then :D
Have you had your third coffee yet?
Bryce.
Still on the first one, must be why. Effin' Mondays...
I'd be interested in one, depending on the cost and shipping and blah, blah blah.
But I do like a gadget, so any I can add to my toolbox I like. Even if I can't find a good excuse for it :D
Postage to anywhere in Europe is €6.
Bryce.
I'd like one as well. I'm considering making an RPi-based modern controller to CPC converter, and I would certainly prefer _not_ doing tests on my 30-year-old CPC :)
Sorry to highjack your thread here. I'm thinking of making my own joystick and/or game pad.
Quick question for those in the know, is the 9 pin dsub connector for joysticks the same as what can still be found easily?
i.e. Like the one i've linked but without the metal surround.
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/solder-d-sub-connectors/5443749/ (https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/solder-d-sub-connectors/5443749/)
Yes.
Quote from: GUNHED on 18:34, 04 December 18
Yes.
Thanks.I realise that may have been a stupid question, but I wanted to make sure.Sorry for the hijack! as you were!
On some machines the tabs on either side of that connector will hit the case of the computer and not be insertable. I'd recommend you get some old scrap joystick and "borrow" the cable from that for your homemade device.
Bryce.
Quote from: geebus on 20:15, 04 December 18
Thanks.I realise that may have been a stupid question, but I wanted to make sure.Sorry for the hijack! as you were!
Not at all. It's always better to check double. The idea from Bryce is fine as long as you find a connector with all the needed wires to the needed pins. :)
Quote from: GUNHED on 14:30, 05 December 18
Not at all. It's always better to check double. The idea from Bryce is fine as long as you find a connector with all the needed wires to the needed pins. :)
True, I should have mentioned that. Try to find a scrap joytick that has all the pins populated, or at least with a second fire button, otherwise you may find that the pin you need isn't connected.
Bryce.
And to check this out the Joystick tester comes in very handy! :)
Quote from: GUNHED on 14:46, 05 December 18
And to check this out the Joystick tester comes in very handy! :)
Except for pin 5 which the Joystick Tester (and the majority of Joysticks) doesn't use.
Bryce.
Well, then... we need a AMX mouse tester ;D ;) :)
Oh god! what have i started between you two? haha
A tester would be a great idea. So I may have to get one of those from you Bryce.
Well, a productive discussion of course. What else? :)
Quote from: GUNHED on 16:42, 06 November 18
The CPC's Joystick port is super save - just don't feed Power IN.
Now, to test joystick you need just to switch on the CPC and move they joystick. This will show you X, Z for the fire buttons and arrows for the four directions.
And if you really need to test Fire 3 (spare signal) then use the "Show keys" utility from the FutureOS System Utilities disc. :)
Agreed, don't see much point in designing a joystick tester either I must say...
Ah, read it again, and now I see the point ;D
Quote from: Bryce on 08:36, 07 November 18
All correct, but the person who asked me to build them doesn't have a CPC, he specialises in Amiga hardware, which are known to have joystick port problems on several models, hence the need to establish if the problem is the joystick or the computer.
Bryce.
Seriously?! You are helping folks that *do not own a CPC* ?? :picard2: Hmm... ::) ;)
Quote from: LambdaMikel on 05:51, 06 December 18
Seriously?! You are helping folks that *do not own a CPC* ?? :picard2: Hmm... ::) ;)
I build stuff and repair ANY retro gear, and not just computers. The CPC is number one, as it was my childhood computer, but I have designed devices for the Spectrums, BBCs, MSXs, Commodores, Segas, Orics and many more. I also repair vintage radios and test equipment.
On the bench at the moment: Coleco Adam, Vectrex and a Spectrum +3. Current long-term restoration project is a HP 3478A (hopelessly searching for parts at the moment :( ).
Bryce.
Bryce.
Quote from: Bryce on 08:34, 06 December 18
On the bench at the moment: Coleco Adam, Vectrex and a Spectrum +3. Current long-term restoration project is a HP 3478A (hopelessly searching for parts at the moment :( ).
Some exotic gear! Wish I had an Oric and a Vectrex, but the Ebay prices are just crazy for these.
Yup. It was the first time I've messed about with a Vectrex, very cool concept. Unfortunately, the first one fixed is one of the early models the buzzes annoyingly the entire time. That would get on my nerves, but I'll leave it like that for originality (I won't be keeping it).I have two Orics, an Oric 1 and an Oric Atom. Look great, work shit.
Bryce.
Hey, I got your package on Monday, thank you!
Do you have any mechanical drawing for it? I'd like to try my hand on creating some kind of enclosure for it (for 3D printing).
No I only did schematics and a layout, but it's pretty much a rectangle so it should be just a matter of three dimensions. An enclosure might be difficult though as the LEDs are flat on the PCB.
Bryce.