I've just picked up this beautiful example of an Amstrad CPC 464.
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It's got a few issues: mismatched screws, missing screws, broken plastic, deep scratches, melted plastic, broken tape counter, there was something rattling inside that I think is the azimuth screw.... oh and it doesn't power on.
[attach=4][attach=5][attach=6][attach=7]
Cleaned up the motherboard and it doesn't look too horrible despite the wobbly power socket, the lack of screws and maybe a little track damage near the would SOUND.
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What a shit repair job on the power socket!! It might be the cause for it not starting. The broken track on pin 21 of the AY goes to pin 37 of the 8255. If the track can't be fixed, connect a wire directly between the pins.
Hope you get it working.
Bryce.
Got the only screw holding the motherboard in place out and.... delamination :laugh:
[attach=2]
Here's the power socket from the other side
[attach=3]
Ehhh, that power connector isn't connected to anything?
If the "bubbles" / "mountains" in the ground plain is what you mean with delaminating, then don't worry, this is normal, it's due to the crap hot-air leveling they used to do back then.
Bryce.
You's just jealous of the last person persons skills who tried to repair it :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
Explains why I didn't they any power when I tried it, I take it they've destroyed the tracks (you can almost make out where they used to go)?
So 50/50 it will ever work again? I am wondering if some of the IC's have been cooked?
Cool :D Is there a technical term for the bubbles?
99/1 it will work again :)
Bryce.
Those cost down motherboards are tiny.
Shame there is no sane way to attach a PS2 style keyboard to them.
lol, yeah I am wondering what else I can put inside it.
Quote from: redbox on 19:57, 03 October 13
Shame there is no sane way to attach a PS2 style keyboard to them.
If you really need one and are ready for a bit of soldering, look there :
Is there any recent project to connect a PC (PS/2) keyboard to the CPC? (http://www.cpcwiki.eu/forum/amstrad-cpc-hardware/is-there-any-recent-project-to-connect-a-pc-%28ps2%29-keyboard-to-the-cpc/)
Pff, not even a 664... I am disapointed, you failed me for the last time... >:(
now get a disk drive and +64K expansion and we're gonna tolk...
;)
Quote from: redbox on 19:57, 03 October 13
Those cost down motherboards are tiny.
Shame there is no sane way to attach a PS2 style keyboard to them.
Yes, but that one isn't a cost down.
It's the revision before.
Quote from: MacDeath on 23:48, 03 October 13
Pff, not even a 664... I am disapointed, you failed me for the last time... >:(
now get a disk drive and +64K expansion and we're gonna tolk...
;)
I'd love a CPC 664 but I've never seen one come up for sale in Ireland :(
Got the 64k RAM and just waiting for Bryce's replacement DDI :P
Motherboard and a few other bits are ready to be shipped to Germany :D
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Does anyone have any original screws I can buy off them? My OCD is going mental looking at what is currently being used. I have 2 possible original screws for the case and 4 wood screws, and 2 mismatched screws holding the motherboard down. The last one I think is the azimuth adjustment screw...
[attach=3]
Aaarrgh!!! They are all wood screws, none of them belong on a CPC.
Bryce.
Even the silver ones that aren't countersunk? :'(
This was one seriously unloved little CPC...
What CRTC types do those "revisions/cut/cost down have ?
good ones or bad ones ?
Quote from: MacDeath on 19:37, 05 October 13
What CRTC types do those "revisions/cut/cost down have ?
good ones or bad ones ?
Looks like a type 1 on the picture above
Yup, my revision 2 seems to be using a type 1...
Quote from: MacDeath on 19:37, 05 October 13
What CRTC types do those "revisions/cut/cost down"
They have 'Type 4' being an ASIC chip.
Not sure how compatible they are but think they 'fail' the type 0/1 test.
Quote from: beaker on 17:55, 05 October 13
Even the silver ones that aren't countersunk? :'(
This was one seriously unloved little CPC...
Yes, even the non-countersunk ones don't look like original 464 screws.
Edit: Here is a picture of the standard screws used on the CPC. They are slightly gold coloured, they have a rounded head, they are always phillips type. The shaft is 12mm long, although the 6128 had one screw that was longer (15mm I think) and the 6128 disk drive had 2 similar screws that were shorter (8mm) and two black M3 0.5mm thread screws (the ones at the side of the case).
Bryce.
Quote from: redbox on 21:05, 05 October 13
They have 'Type 4' being an ASIC chip.
Not sure how compatible they are but think they 'fail' the type 0/1 test.
type 4 is closer to type 0, but not exactly.
type 4 = good
type 1 = good
type 0 = good
type 3 = good
type 2 = poor
So I went down the other end of the house to the Apple Mac to pay for a couple of Acorn Electrons and Plus 1 from Amibay, looked over and noticed the space bar was at a weird angle. Tried it and felt OK. Both sides pushed down by the same amount and came back up properly...
[attach=2]
Opened it up and someone has actually managed to bend the metal shielding ???
[attach=3]
This crazy thread makes me wonder: why on earth did you get this? :D
Dis-assemble the frame from the plastic part and bend it back straight and it'll be like new. I had an Atari 800XL with the same problem, the plastics will go back to being straight when you remount them.
The mainboard arrived here tonight. I've hooked it up to my test bench and it works fine, but the PCB is badly damaged around the power socket. It'll be difficult to get the orignal socket mounted as robust as it needs to be. There's not enough copper on the board so that the solder would hold it. I'll have to come up with something creative. Worst case it might have to be a fly-lead. But the rest all works fine. Sharp picture, sound is fine. Haven't checked the keyboard or loaded anything yet (I only had 15 Minutes), but I will do as soon as I have time. The repaired trace at the AY actually works, but I'll add a wire link under the PCB anyway to be 100% sure.
I'll post a few pictures of the progress as I get it done.
Bryce.
I've also have a 464 that I received like that. But as Bryce said they straighten up just fine.
To be honest I'm surprised it does not happen more often.
Just think, 20 odd years ago the old CPC was carefully placed in the Shed/Garage/Attic wherever...
20 Years later it's sitting under 20Kgs of rubbish, until somebody decides to have a clean up and there it is beakers 464 ready to be loved again.
Brings a tear to the eye it does. :D
Cheers,
Shane
Absolutely :D It's an unloved machine that just needs a bit of TLC and a fair bit of plastic filler to bring it back.
@Bryce - great news on the motherboard, thanks :D Can a socket be glued to the motherboard and wires taken from from the pins to the motherboard in place of the ruined trace? Just thinking the glue won't make it any worse at this point... Just thinking about the xbox 360 and reading they glue in the chips these days as well as solder them.
I'll give the keyboard repair a go this weekend, and give the whole lot a good clean. Did you just use brute force to straighten it? I was looking forward to using a (sledge) hammer....
Glueing ICs (that get no mechanical pressure) to a board is one thing, glueing a socket that gets used regularly is a completely different matter. PCBs are laminated with a very thin layer (usually green) called solder mask. You'd have to remove this completely, otherwise the mask would just give way. You'd also have to ensure that the bottom of the socket was a large smooth surface, which it isn't. I have an idea though. I'll let you know when I've tried it.
The keyboard frame is thin enough to just bend with your hands. you can leave the sledge hammer in the shed for now (until you need to "fix" a C64 :D )
Bryce.
Thanks Bryce :D Ah, a little knowledge is a dangerous thing; I'd be pulling the solder mask off the whole motherboard if I'd be doing it :)
I'm intrigued now as to what you're planning...
No one ever lets me use my sledge hammer :'( :'( :'(
So this isn't you in the video?
Smashing My Commodore 64 - Video (http://www.metacafe.com/watch/177007/smashing_my_commodore_64/)
Bryce.
Don't get me wrong, but if I have to choose between the C64 and some neanderthals banging things to pieces, I'd rather choose the C64...
lol, no, I prefer using much heavy duty objects. I am still saving up for the flame thrower for when I need to take down the shed :P
So, I had a few minutes spare this evening and got some more done. I said I'd need to do something creative with the Power socket, so I did :)
As you can from the first picture, the board isn't too bad on the top, but the tracks on the bottom are completely gone, so there's no way the connector would stay there very long.. So I drilled a 1mm x 5mm channel on either side of the socket and wrapped a mini cable-tie around it. Pulled it tight and viola, the connector is rock solid on the board. The electrical connections are made with wire bridges underneath. You might also notice that I also replaced the main electrolytic capacitor behind the socket. The "butcher" had been at that too and damaged a track there, so I thought it would be best to replace it to be sure. I also bridged the broken track to the AY. Now I just need to add the internal expansion connector you wanted, but I 'm away for a few days, so that won't happen until I get back.
Oh, btw, (see picture 4) I also replaced the button on your MultiFace with a decent metal one :)
Bryce.
Fantastic, thanks Bryce :D
I didn't think of that...
I was either thinking you'd brace it somehow against the RGB connector or change the socket to one that you could drill to the case :laugh:
Safe trip
So took the keyboard apart to straighten it out metal shielding and... more dust!!!
[attach=2]
Use the air duster to get rid of some of it and the brush from an old camera lens cleaner to try and shift some more but there was still loads of it stuck to the membrane so had to use Isopropyl Alcohol (hopefully it didn't damage it) and gently brushed across it with the side of the Q-tips.
[attach=3]
Keys look like the keys clip into the base of the keyboard so rather than remove them all I just washed it keys down in the sink
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Next I looked at the tape deck. I've ordered a new belt from the UK, but what parts do I lubricate? Also, how do I disconnect the power LED board? It's been clipped to the case and then the clips and the board have been glued into place ??? I want to take it all apart so I can properly fix the case and respray it...
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Especially with damage like this... (I think I'll try filing it back and then filling it somehow)
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Now, the counter with the broken button...
It looks like something has snapped off the button. When I took the counter apart the small triangular bit of plastic fell out. The actual counter works perfectly and if I pull the small bar down on the rear of the mechanism it resets to 000. Does anyone know what this button thing looks like normally when it's in one piece and is it worth repairing, or does someone have another I can buy off them, or are they fairly universal and can I steal it from any other cassette unit?
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Thanks in advance,
Beaker
Anyone know if it's safe to take the perspex/clear plastic off the cassette lid?
I bought some mystery white liquid off ebay a few years back that seems to remove small scratches and brightens up the plastic. I bought it originally to clean up a badly misted plastic rear window on the soft top roof of my MGB,
[attach=2]
It's done a grand job on the tape deck but I managed to get some behind the perspex. Is it a case of using a screwdriver on the tabs on the rear of the fascia? Has anyone done this before?
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Sorry, I don't have an answer, but damn! It seems it did a great job on the plastic, and the colour is still there!!!
Firstly...wow, what is that magic stuff, I need some of that.
Secondly, I must apoligize for what may be a crap description...and includes a very crap picture, one I cut from one of my old photo's.
Anyway, I have remove the clear plastic from the tape lid on a few occasions. You just have to be a bit gentle.
Basically looking down directly onto the tape lid, if you look closely you will see two plastic tabs on the clear part that tuck under the thin dark plastic at the top of the lid (you need to bee looking into the crack where the clear window meets that dark plastic part along the top).
[attachimg=1]
As mentioned I found a picture where I had a CPC fully apart, an in one you can just make out the clear plastic part...I included this part of the picture only so you can see the plastic tabs I mentioned.
[attachimg=2]
So what I do is to get a thin but firm piece of plastic...I have used a Credit type card for this so as not to damage the CPC plastics.
Slide it between the clear window & the top plastic (I tend to go to the middle) then slide it to one of the tabs.
Then lever the plastic (credit card, etc) so that you are pushing it toward the thin plastic at the top of the lid.
Doing this gently you will cause the thin plastic strip to slightly bow out and at the same time lever the clear window up...once it is up and out slide the credit card or whatever across to the other tab and repeat the lever action (gently).
To re insert I do the same thing..
Really sorry if that is the crappiest explanation you have ever read....I know what I mean ???
Anyway, be gentle with the levering action and try to find something that will be gentle on you Cassette lid plastics,
Cheers,
Shane
The perspex pops out quite easily. Use a wide blade to avoid denting the plastic though.
There is a product called "Displex" available on ebay for cleaning non-touchscreen mobile phone displays, it also works great for removing these scratches: DISPLEX Kratzer Entferner Set | eBay (http://www.ebay.de/itm/DISPLEX-Kratzer-Entferner-Set-/390121813555?pt=Handy_Zubeh%C3%B6r&hash=item5ad5127633)
Bryce.
Cool, it popped out easily. Now it's all clean :)
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Finished filling in the solder burn on the case
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Because the case is in pretty crap shape with deep gouges in the top and bottom of the case, bits broken off the back, glue stuck to the case, and I am planning on putting new holes in for an audio input, internal USB mouse and reset button I am currently planning on losing the decals and repainting it all gloss black after masking off the inside of the tape deck and the original label on the bottom with the serial number.
[attach=9][attach=11]
Is Milliput good for filling in the gouges?
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If they're not too deep then 'filler' primer would probably fill in most of them. Any car paint shop should have it or Halfords if you afford their prices ;D
I'll give it a go, but I think the one on the bottom may be a little too deep...
[attach=2]
The mainboard is fixed, tested and has an internal expansion port added... It's also on its way back to you since this morning with your MultiFace II and the DKTronics 64K expansion. I've also thrown in a set of screws for the case, so you can close it properly when all that filling and painting is finished :)
Bryce.
Thanks for the pointer, Bryce, going to buy me a couple. Have you tried it?
Yup, I have a tube of it at home and used it recently to remove the scratches from my TRS-80 Model 102 :) It shines like new now.
Bryce.
WHat is exactly this "filler" ? I would be interested for some of my CPCs ;)
Any general filler used for repairing cars / wood and similar. Many of these can be used for plastics too.
(In French you call it Mastic).
Example: Mastic pour plastiques 250 g (http://www.norauto.fr/Acheter-Mastic-pour-plastiques-250-g/produits-entretien/accessoirescarrosserie/267558-NorautoSI-/1.html)
Bryce.
OK, I thought you were talking about a "miracle "product :)
Thank you
The miracle depends on the person using it ;)
Bryce.
Thanks Bryce :D
Quote from: Bryce on 14:22, 28 October 13
(In French you call it Mastic).
What, like the sealant you put around baths??? :P
You mean silicone?
Depends if you want to paint over it :laugh: I don't know, I tend to just go for a silicone sealant but I've heard of Mastic sealants before. I think Mastic sealants you can paint over?
Hm, well, here at least you got silicone you can paint over. Maybe it's not really silicone and it has turned into a generic term, but I bought some only last week for my bathroom and the guy at the shop asked me if I wanted to paint over it.
Mastic in French is a generic word which means more or less the same as putty in English. The English word Mastic is "borrowed" from French but got a slightly different meaning. Neither of them are silicon :) In German it's called Spachtel which translates in English to plaster (the type you put on the wall, not on a cut).
Bryce.
:laugh: Sorry, reminded me of that part in Pulp Fiction
Vincent: But you know what the funniest thing about Europe is?
Jules: What?
Vincent: It's the little differences. I mean they got the same shit t over there that they got here, but it's just...just there it's a little different.
Yes, that scene is a perfect example of how to do non-visual product placement. Very well done.
Bryce.
Ah, explains why I enjoy going over to Amsterdam.. :laugh:
I want to do the audio in mod on the 464
DIY 464 External Audio Socket - CPCWiki (http://www.cpcwiki.eu/index.php/DIY_464_External_Audio_Socket)
I take it the revision of my board below has the connections in the same location as the one in the link?
[attach=2]
Would I be better ordering the screened 3.5mm mono chasis socket or the non-screened?
I didn't think there were multiple revisions.
Unscreened is fine for the frequencies here.
Bryce.
Cool, thanks Bryce. I wasn't sure as mine seems to have MT0001F stamped on it compared to MT0001A image in the link :-[
There were (supposedly) versions that had a different signal on pin 2 (I think). But I've just fixed the motherboard it was connected to and the pinout on the mainboard matches what the mod diagram shows.
Bryce.
Sorry for going back a bit, Mastic actually comes from ancient Greek (same root as the verb "to chew"), and through Latin to the west.
Had to get it off my chest :D
Quote from: Gryzor on 19:46, 10 November 13
Sorry for going back a bit, Mastic actually comes from ancient Greek (same root as the verb "to chew"), and through Latin to the west.
Had to get it off my chest :D
So we've been using discarded Greek chewing gum all this time and didn't know it? :D
Bryce.
And an ancient one, at that.
Well I butchered the case some more and added 2 phono sockets for EAR and REM, and a largish reset switch that I moved slightly over as I realised it was quite close to the SSA-1 volume control when that's inserted.
I just don't know whether to add Bryce's USB mouse adapter internally or find a box and have it external? ??? decisions...
/me cringes...
But it looks nice :)
Should look even better in blow in the dark blue ;D
Ooh, make the keyboard back-lit too, I believe electroluminescent wire is used for this commonly.
lol, I did think about doing this but I wasn't sure if it would interfere with the keystrokes and how much power it was draw.
Electroluminescent wire! Wow, didn't know about that. Couldn't you just insert it between the key rows? I don't know how thick they are, or how much current they draw, though...
It's not as easy as you think. They usually need a high voltage (around 100V) and high frequency (1KHz) supply, so you need a mains supply and a driver circuit.
Bryce.
Ooh. Yeah, I don't want another lighting system for my living room :D
It's small enough to fit between the keys, and it would be easy to implement in something like the BBC Master, where the 220V is available inside the case, but doing it on something like a CPC is just too complicated / messy.
Bryce.
Ok, let's wait a few years, I'm sure things will improve. And just imagine, it would look gorgeous!
You could do it with the type of ulliminating foil that small LCDs (like on the HxC) do. They work on 5V and give a nice glow in any colour you like, but it doesn't come in long strips, so you'd have to fashion something yourself. Probably with multiple 5V supplies.
Bryce.
Edit: You could do it with something like this on the 6128. It needs 12V, but only 200mA for 1.5 Metres, easily enough for the entire keyboard: EL-BAND 1,5 GN - 1,5m Leuchtband, 10mm breit, grün, inkl. Inverter bei reichelt (http://www.reichelt.de/Leuchtfolien/EL-BAND-1-5-GN/3/index.html?&ACTION=3&LA=2&ARTICLE=60197&GROUPID=3033&artnr=EL-BAND+1%2C5+GN)
What about the el-wire with USB inverter? Can that be modified to run off the CPC 5V supply?
3M Dark Blue EL Wire Neon Constant DIY Strip Light + 5V USB Inverter | eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330776155248)
Yes, that could be used on a CPC, but they don't mention how many amps it needs, so you might need to up your supply a bit.
Bryce.
Hm, that's a nice one, and getting there. However, at 10mm wide it's a bit too much I think...?
It's cheap enough, I guess I'll order one and see how it goes?
Oh, please let us know how it goes!!!
I'll try and order some of the el band Bryce linked to as well if the el wire does turn out to be too thick. There shouldn't be a problem adding a 12V socket to the case and use CPC 12V power supply just to power that should there? :D
Hmm, I am not sure if it will be possible as the keys appear to travel all the way down to the plastic base and there's not enough of a gap to run the cable between the keys.
Ah yes, that looks like that will kill off this idea, unless you spend all day drilling tiny holes in the plastic base and putting the lighting behind it. I guess you could put the wire around the outside of the keyboard (i.e., on the underside of the case) for an illuminated keyboard outline as a compromise.
Are you trying to light up the actually lettering on the individual keys or just give the whole keyboard a bit of a 'glow' ?
Individual keys would be a nightmare, maybe paint them with luminescent paint (remember that Only Fools & Horses episode :D )
Or simpler option would be run the lighting tape around the inside edge of the top case where the keyboard comes out.
lol I do, and he painted his mum's tomb with the paint as well :laugh:
Thanks to Bryce, I now have a new tape counter for the 464 :D The reset button is a bit smaller than the original but I quite like it, and is certainly better than having no reset button at all ;D
[attach=2]
Wow, so it does fit! I really didn't think it would. Congrats.
Did you replace the whole unit or just borrow the reset button?
Bryce.
No, that's the whole new unit, literally just arrived at lunchtime so I tried it in there and when I saw it fit I just taped it onto the case with a bit of masking tape and took the photo :)
Well chuffed, thanks ;D
I just swapped the reset button and facia form the new one to the old one. Check it out, they're practically identical in size :)
The only differences appear to be the base and the spindle but both appear to have been manufactured in Japan. What do you think, is it possible to use the other internal parts to fix a broken tape counter? Would it be worth adding a link to the Wiki with details on where to buy?
Slightly annoying that the back of the 464 goes down at an angle so I had to mount the USB connector higher than I would have liked so there's a dirty great hole under the USB connector, and I made the hole a few millimeters wider than it needed to be... I think I am going to break out the putty tomorrow and fill in the section under the USB connector to make it a bit more presentable like I did on the front of the case >:(
[attach=2]
[attach=3]
The hole is rather large, but it's very neat, I'd leave it like that.
Bryce.
Too late... :-[
Indeed the hole is nice in the photo, and since it's on the back... oh well!
Too bad the luminous thingie idea doesn't seem to work :(
Didn't like the USB hole being that big, so new size :D
[attach=2]
Looks well done. Is it supported from the back? Otherwise it might start to crumble if you regularly plug/unplug the USB.
Bryce.
I made it out of the metal epoxy as that stuff seems to go off like a rock when it sets then I swapped the bit of DVD case on the back and covered it in a thinnish layer of Araldite which is the strongest glue I can think of so fingers crossed that should hold. I'm going to sand it down a bit more tonight and use some fine plastic filler to finish it off. Then on with the spraying :D
I might have to get an air freshener though, that Araldite stinks!
Haven't read the whole thread... but what's the USB port for ?
Bryce invented a PS2/USB mouse adapter a few years back.
PS2Mouse - CPCWiki (http://www.cpcwiki.eu/index.php/PS2Mouse)
I am basically turning this CPC into the Bryce machine with the lowerROM, MegaFlash, mouse interface, and the DDI-2 when it's ready for release.
I've got to ask, is that you selling the NeoGeo MVS-1F on adverts.ie? With Fitzsteve is building an arcade cabinet on Amibay using one, I thought I might try one myself after I've finished this CPC :laugh:
Yep that's me selling the MVS & Sega STV & the awesome Superguns :)
Awesome new USB port :)
Looking great mate, I think I know the epoxy you're using, chemical metal or something similar. I would suggest you do fix something behind if you haven't already. I used to fix a lot of cars and unless you fix it in properly, it is liable to snap off, especially with as Bryce says you're inserting and removing the USB plug frequently, the plastic may flex a bit under the strain not to mention accidentally catching the plug on the bottom of the epoxy.
Fiberglass resin is also really good for these sorts of repairs too.
Have you considered satin black instead of gloss black, the reduced shine would better replicate the CPC's original finish.
Great work though it's going to look fantastic!
Horrah, my switch finally arrived so I managed to install it and only drilled through my thumb and forefinger - result! :laugh:
This machine won't work at all, k, you removed the electronic inside... what were you thinking ?
;D
A success, by all accounts. The best empty case I've seen, and all for the cost of two fingers!
Nice... Christmas tree. :-\
Quote from: Gryzor on 19:35, 17 December 13
A success, by all accounts. The best empty case I've seen, and all for the cost of two fingers!
Well he had the cost of sending the Mainboard to me for repair and modification, but that at least means that it won't be just a good looking empty case, but a working highly modified CPC464 too :)
Bryce.
No FDC, only 64K, poor CRTC model... to me 464 was always an empty box anyway.
;D
But a cool looking box. ;)
Good point you can put a lot of Arduinos and Raspberry PI stuffs inside this.. in addition to good old Motherboard.
Quote from: MacDeath on 23:13, 17 December 13Good point you can put a lot of Arduinos and Raspberry PI stuffs inside this.. in addition to good old Motherboard.
And check it, so listen music...
Or, you can forget it under the tree and ask to Santa Claus a great 6128 for a best 2014 year.
Or get the soon to be released Extra 512K card from totO. ;)
Awe lads, all the mocking of the poor 464 has left it feeling a little grey! :laugh:
[attach=2]
Ooo, starting to look like the 464 Prototype :) Just needs a slight hint of brown.
Bryce.
Can't wait to see the final result ;)
Quote from: Devilmarkus on 18:15, 20 December 13
Can't wait to see the final result ;)
Well, yes. I even could imagine that it somehow may look a bit like a CPC 464 from Amstrad :laugh:
Quote from: TFM on 18:20, 20 December 13
Well, yes. I even could imagine that it somehow may look a bit like a CPC 464 from Amstrad :laugh:
Really?
I hope that you have paint the both shoes.
Meanwhile after 6 coats of paint.... Black Ninja 464!!! ::)
[attach=2]
Looks good. Looking forward to seeing what it looks like with the keys installed. The contrast should look pretty cool.
Bryce.
Hopefully :D
I'll put a bit more time into it tomorrow as after I killed the PSU on my HxC while it was attached to the BBC Micro, I think I've now broken my BBC Micro as well (after TheCorfiot put all that time into refurbishing before Christmas) :'( When I first turn it on it either doesn't boot properly, or the game (Arcadians) starts juddering or the TurboMMC doesn't load the game properly.
I actually feel like I'm 5 again and broken my new favourite toy. Gutted!
Check the ROMs are seated properly. My Master takes a wobbly every so often when the Dual-Boot ROM PCB has come loose. I think you've one of those too don't you?
Bryce.
Is this the one you're thinking of with the MOS Selector?
[attach=2]
I bought it for the Master I bought from Badstarr and yourself that I will get around to installing.
The Micro has the standard ROM and MMC in the left most sockets, and the 2 sockets on the right populated.
[attach=3][attach=4]
What do I need to do to re-seat them? Do I just push them down or do I need to lift them slightly then push back down sorry?
Pushing them down is usually enough.
This is the one I meant (and have): The RetroClinic Dual OS switchable ROM board (http://www.retro-kit.co.uk/page.cfm/content/RetroClinic-DualOS/)
The fact that the PCB is off-centre makes it prone to shake loose when you transport the computer.
Bryce.
I know what you're thinking - probably going to look even more pants when it's covered in fingerprints :laugh:
[attach=2]
Small question : how did you manage to remove the amtrad logo plate ? Is it still usable ?
Quote from: beaker on 15:48, 12 January 14
I know what you're thinking - probably going to look even more pants when it's covered in fingerprints :laugh:
[attach=2]
Ooh shiny
Quote from: gerald on 16:02, 12 January 14
Small question : how did you manage to remove the amtrad logo plate ? Is it still usable ?
I probably did it wrong. I just pushed them out from behind and then used the flat blade of a metal scraper to pull them off but like the rest of the machine, they're not in the greatest shape. I'm guessing I probably should have heated it up a bit to reactivate the glue and they would have come off easier, but I wasn't planning to use them again.
I like the wooly jumper!
Bryce.
lol, it looks crap and you can hear the static electricity built up on it, but by heck it's warm :laugh:
So shiny! So cool! So fingerprint-prone! (are there shiny paints that are fingerprint-resistant?)
Yeah, the label looks unusable now unfortunately... what if you had carefully covered it? Any ideas what to do now?
I've managed to repair similar metal labels by flattening them again. The most successful attempt (and I tried some even crazier methods :D ) was using a rolling pin which gave it a slight curve down at each end, which then flattened completely when it was glued back in place.
Bryce.
Quote from: Bryce on 14:59, 18 January 14
... was using a rolling pin which gave it a slight curve down...
That works quite well actually! Once my girl friend did strike me with a rolling pin, it also gave me a slight curve down. :laugh:
Quote from: TFM on 19:17, 18 January 14
That works quite well actually! Once my girl friend did strike me with a rolling pin, it also gave me a slight curve down. :laugh:
And did you function as she expected you to afterwards? :D
Bryce.
Lol :)
Have to ask,with the method you used, Bryce, did you also get all the creases completely out?
Well the whole process involved heating the metal (to about 150°C I think), then I laid it on a piece of leather face down and went over it with the rolling pin. All the creases came out. I also tried ironing one (a C64 label), but that didn't work as well.
Bryce.
That black paint on 464 looks mad, I want it ;)
Waiting the final :]
I so want to try this :laugh: I mean I'm not going to use them again so I've got nothing to lose. Will it work on wood or does it have to be leather?
I used leather because I didn't want the 3D text to get flatten completely. I thought the leather might absorb some of the pressure and save the text (and I happened to have an old writing desk with a leather surface at the time). No idea if the text would have been damaged on wood?
Bryce.
Oh yeah.Leather was a good idea! Let me borrow the missus' coat...
Yeah, leather coat with Amstard embossed on the back.... she'll like that! (use the back, it'll take longer before she notices and goes through the roof) :D
Bryce.
Quote from: Gryzor on 17:04, 17 January 14
So shiny! So cool! So fingerprint-prone! (are there shiny paints that are fingerprint-resistant?)
Yeah, the label looks unusable now unfortunately... what if you had carefully covered it? Any ideas what to do now?
Ahh, the answer is here
(http://static.guim.co.uk/sys-images/Guardian/Pix/site_furniture/2011/2/1/1296576746200/surgeons-gloves-page.jpg)
Rolling pin and heat is great solution for labels and leather good to. Ask for some samples of leatherette material from a local fabric shop or even furnishers. Places that sell beds, sofas, stuff like that will often give out fabric samples too.
Or I have you a really nice dust cover made up with clear oilcloth panel for the Keys :laugh:
Thanks TheCortfiot for putting it all back together and refurbishing what needed refurbishing, brilliant job :D
I'm looking forward to giving it a test run this weekend. Just need Bryce to do the DDI-I 2 now (pretty please) ;D
(http://i1336.photobucket.com/albums/o641/sir_beaker/P1030999s_zps8db4a589.jpg)
(http://i1336.photobucket.com/albums/o641/sir_beaker/P1040004s_zpsfe4bace4.jpg)
Looks good. The DDI-2 got pushed down my ToDo list a bit, but I should be back working on it soon.
Bryce.
Quote from: Bryce on 08:35, 17 April 14
Looks good. The DDI-2 got pushed down my ToDo list a bit, but I should be back working on it soon.
Bryce.
Good news!!! :-)