Hi,
Anyone have a good solution for an enclosure for a Mother X4? My MotherX4 with added cards are unboxed and I would like to have it boxed.
Regards,
Bjørn
I was thinking the same, since I plan to buy one. Ideally we could try to have something 3D printed, it is not very difficult if we design and create a proper model of the case. Another option would be to use something like Legos :D
I assume it's 'just' about finding the right box in the huge commercial offers of plastic boxes.
Im using a transparent box.
Its a box for keeping the small collored paper, stikers :o
looks great - where do I get one
Quote from: radu14m on 18:57, 03 August 15
Im using a transparent box.
Its a box for keeping the small collored paper, stikers :o
I use mine nude, because I need to reach the MF2 Remake buttons.
I don't own an MX-4 (I've had my own one since the 80s :) ), but if I wanted to make a case, I'd just buy something like this: TEKO TN 11.29: Kunststoffgehäuse TEKNET 11.29, dunkelgrau bei reichelt (http://www.reichelt.de/Kunststoffgehaeuse-TEKO/TEKO-TN-11-29/3/index.html?&ACTION=3&LA=2&ARTICLE=54129&GROUPID=3354&artnr=TEKO+TN+11.29) and cut slots in the top to match the connectors on the top, a slot at the end for the flat cable to CPC and a hole in the side for the 5V. That way it's protected from shorts from metal on the desk, but you still have access to all switches.
Bryce.
@Oxbridge: What looks good? Can you see some picture/link in this thread that I don't?
The link is as transparent as his box! :P
(http://s18.postimg.org/pddjiw57d/20150804_165250.jpg)
here it is :)
yesterday i did not put the link, so that now is not transparent anymore !
The box is transparent anyway :D I like your enclosure! it even has a gap for the power cable :)
the gap is perfect.
i put under the MX4 a bubble bag, for isolation and to rise it a bit... :)
Nice, but you don't have to isolate the PCB against plastic or wood. ;D
What I always do, even when I do not put an enclosure (most of the time) is to install some PCB spacers. Then, the board does not touch anything and it is safer. I have tons because they are deadly cheap and very convenient. In many cases I even stack the PCBs on top of each other.
(http://i00.i.aliimg.com/img/pb/281/530/376/376530281_256.jpg)
Unfortunately, TotO only put two mounting holes on the MX4 and they're both at the same end of the board, so this isn't really possible in this case.
Bryce.
quote(http://cdncache-a.akamaihd.net/items/it/img/arrow-10x10.png)(http://cdncache-a.akamaihd.net/items/it/img/arrow-10x10.png)(http://cdncache-a.akamaihd.net/items/it/img/arrow-10x10.png) author=TotO link=topic=10831.msg106036#msg106036 date=1438760220]
Nice, but you don't have to isolate the PCB against plastic or wood. ;D
[size=78%][[/size] quote(http://cdncache-a.akamaihd.net/items/it/img/arrow-10x10.png)[size=78%]][/size]
The underside of the X4 ( where the soldering points are ) is not perfect plan, and you must put something softer under it, to avoid balancing and to level it.
Also, small metal pieces can get accidentally under the pcb, so that i use this bubble bag.
You can also use other material, if you think is needed.
I always prefer to put something under the boards, to protect them.
[C|-|E]]: i like the ideea of spacer, i will try to get some too and then i will add them to my construction :)
Also a green led can be added udner the pcb :)
quote(http://cdncache-a.akamaihd.net/items/it/img/arrow-10x10.png) author=Bryce link=topic=10831.msg106058#msg106058 date=1438770889]
Unfortunately, TotO only put two mounting holes on the MX4 and they're both at the same end of the board, so this isn't really possible in this case.
Bryce.
[ quote(http://cdncache-a.akamaihd.net/items/it/img/arrow-10x10.png)]
i think that is not a problem to drill another 2 holes,on the other side.
did you check if there any traces around ?
When I only have two mounting holes I use one of these plastic bases :) (the black one that is below the RPi)
(http://www.cpcwiki.eu/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=10768.0;attach=15589;image)
The Raspberry Pi has the same problem, only two mounting holes, but I managed solve it, more or less :)
I'm still working on solving that problem further for you. I have a prototype built and I'm currently doing the software to replace that Rpi with a tiny PCB :) (so tiny it doesn't need mounting holes!)
Bryce.
Thank you Bryce, that would be great! I managed to made the things tidier now, basically installing proper cables that can be folded. However, having something much smaller would be great :D
More discussion on that in the other thread: Crappy VGA image quality. (http://www.cpcwiki.eu/forum/amstrad-cpc-hardware/crappy-vga-image-quality/msg106073/#msg106073)
Bryce.
Quote from: Bryce on 11:34, 05 August 15
Unfortunately, TotO only put two mounting holes on the MX4 and they're both at the same end of the board, so this isn't really possible in this
I have put 4 mounting holes for fixing the board, but two are hidden under the interlock connector.
Ah, didn't know that. Then well done, that's how it should be :)
Bryce.
Yes... But now, I have not really tested if it is easy to reach them with screws. ;D
I will test it when I order the board, do not worry! ;D
Can you post or link to a picture of the board from above?
Bryce.
I will do that.
Anyway, if the holes are there, it will be always possible to use the spacers. It is just a question of using the screws in a couple of them and something soft to stick to the other two :)
As it's hard to use spacers and screws for all 4 edges of the Mother X4 I was thinking of enclosures with sliding rails on each side.
Like in on the EEVBLOG on youtube. I just have to be deadly accurate measuring before I order.
EEVblog #644 - How To Design Front Panels On Extruded Enclosures - µSupply Part (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wg_J9WElvBY)
Then I have something to do for the dark evenings of the autumn.
Your enclosure radu14m is cool. Transparency is really good for the Mother X4, but I really would like it to be fully boxed. I have limited space in my office/hobby room and move things around a lot and not necessarily in a careful way.
Bjørn
The enclosure that Dave uses with slots are only available in ISO standard sizes and the MX4 doesn't conform to these sizes, so that won't work.
Bryce.
Huuum... maybe I will try to print something when we receive the new 3D printer for the lab. It will be expensive, though, because they want to buy one of those systems that use liquid resin and I found it to be quite quite costly :(
Quote from: CraigsBar on 21:32, 03 August 15I use mine nude, because I need to reach the MF2 Remake buttons.
Hm, somehow this didn't come out right. Remind me to be careful when watching any future pictures of your gaming room. ;)
At the moment my MX4 rests on the table as is, but I've been searching for a convenient box for some time. So far, not a single one fit well enough.
I can understand him though. We've stopped hardware tests several times lately (including today) because our lab has reached 40°C !
Bryce.
Quote from: Bryce on 13:42, 06 August 15I can understand him though. We've stopped hardware tests several times lately (including today) because our lab has reached 40°C !
Ugh. What a nightmare!
I love my air-conditioned office during the heatwaves in summer.
My office is climatised... So, it is 25°C in for 40°C out actually.
But, at home, where I built your boards my friends... It is 30/35°C inside. That explain why I'm not really productive those last weeks. :-\
Aircon in the office, but not in the lab for obvious reasons.
Bryce.
My boss wonders why I'm in the lab until 22:00 or so. Well this lab actually has AC :laugh:
In our labs we always have the same temperature, around 21 (I am biologist) but oh man when you go to the office... we have all the computers in a big shared room with cubicles and that can be hell. My computer working 24/7 and loaded with GPUs is one of the main contributors to the heat, though, so I do not dare to complain :-X . I is also very noisy... :-X
Quote from: [[C|-|E]] on 22:20, 06 August 15
In our labs we always have the same temperature, around 21 (I am biologist)
Same here: Valid for temperature and job. ;) 8)
Are you biologist as well? :D That is a coincidence!
Quote from: C|-|E on 22:57, 06 August 15
Are you biologist as well? :D That is a coincidence!
Yes, doing genetics with yeast at Tulane (New Orleans). It's about aging / eternal youth and so on. Just found some new functions of
SIR2. But CPC may be even more my passion. ;)
I work with yeast as well, but in DNA replication :) . Funnily enough, I know Sir1 (although not Sir2) protein quite well, I was helping somebody to express it in the past :D .
I work with yeast as well, but in buns and donuts. Sadly, they do not have time to age :laugh:
Hey, at least you do something useful with them, not like us! :D
Quote from: gerald on 18:52, 07 August 15
I work with yeast as well, but in buns and donuts. Sadly, they do not have time to age [emoji23]
I also use yeast, but in beers and ciders. Buns and donuts good, but I think I win on the useful count.
Quote from: Bryce on 13:42, 06 August 15
I can understand him though. We've stopped hardware tests several times lately (including today) because our lab has reached 40°C !
Bryce.
Pussies.
Quote from: Gryzor on 17:26, 08 August 15
Pussies.
I'm quite sure having had a couple of them in their lab may be the reason why the temperature rose to 40 degrees. Just don't let his wife know, ok?
Well I wouldn't object that, but now you're putting words in my mouth :D
First off, the temperature wasn't too high for us, rather too high for what we wanted to test. Secondly Yeast is used to make beer, anything else is just faffing about. Thirdly, eternal youth comes from messing about with Retro hardware, the only yeast you need for that is mentioned in point number two.
Bryce.
Quote from: Gryzor on 19:01, 08 August 15Well I wouldn't object that, but now you're putting words in my mouth :D
Well, yes. ;) Blame it on the temperatures.
So I was bored... :D
Nice. 8)
You can unsolder the capacitor and remove to case hole, as most boards don't have it. ;)
Cool! If you would like to share the model I can print a test :) We are setting up a new 3D printer and we always look for things to print :D
It's available publicly in Onshape, but it's not quite ready to be printed - there's no clips between the halves for instance.
https://cad.onshape.com/documents/d4f2a28e62360c48eb6779f2 (https://cad.onshape.com/documents/d4f2a28e62360c48eb6779f2)
Quote from: ||C|-|E|| on 11:32, 03 April 16
Cool! If you would like to share the model I can print a test :) We are setting up a new 3D printer and we always look for things to print :D
Oooh, can I give you stuff to print?
I was sort of designing a case[nb]Before I started drilling holes everywhere like a mad scientist[/nb], but I'm a total noob and I have no idea what's realistic regarding to 3D printing.
(like, can I make a nearly closed box with lots of details inside, how thin can a surface be before it bends over itself like a slice of cheese, etc.)
Thank you for the model Pelrun! :D
@kahz: yes, in principle I should be able to print some test models. The institute bought a new 3D printer but we are in the process of setting it up before making it available to everybody. The only problem is that we still do not know the printer very well. The people tried to print very complex things (see below) and it was working but then, removing the scaffold was impossible (as expected, I would say :picard: ). In my little experience, if you try to print something that is very complicate it will be really difficult, if not impossible, to remove the support without damaging the model. However, if it is a box and the detail you are talking about is just a collection of many vertical walls in the inner surface it should be fine.
(https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/5e/Protein_H2AFJ_PDB_1aoi.png)
Wow, modern art... and people pay such silly amounts for it.