Hi folks ! I try to solder a reset switch button on my mainboard in a 6128 Old.. and i need a little help here :picard:
First of all i solder a wire in the R102 hole for the bus reset and i made some mistake by cutting a contact wire ..see the picture..
the cpc is still working.. ??? so i do not know how this component is working but if someone can tell me if it is important or not ?
[attach=2]
Secondly i sold a wire on the floppy ground
[attach=3]
When all the wires are connected and i power on the machine, the 6128 is only working when i push the reset button and i hold it ..i don't really understand what is going on.. :picard:
Thank you for your help !
Hi Guyome,
first off, R102 is a pull up resistor for IC110 (part of the reset circuitry). The CPC will (might) work without that track connected, but the computer will be unstable and prone to random resets without warning. You should solder a bridge-wire between that via and the leg of R102 to repair this. Regarding the second issue: Are you sure the button you've used is normally open (push to make) and not normally closed (push to break)? That would explain the reversed function.
Bryce.
Quote from: Bryce on 09:52, 20 October 15
Hi Guyome,
first off, R102 is a pull up resistor for IC110 (part of the reset circuitry). The CPC will (might) work without that track connected, but the computer will be unstable and prone to random resets without warning. You should solder a bridge-wire between that via and the leg of R102 to repair this. Regarding the second issue: Are you sure the button you've used is normally open (push to make) and not normally closed (push to break)? That would explain the reversed function.
Bryce.
Thank you for your answer ;)
So if i solder a little wire between the resistor and the hole it is ok right ? and it's not possible to just made a bridge with only copper ?
I guess my button is wrong.. i need to buy another one .. it's the only explanation.
You just have to rework the damaged track as Bryce explain and the CPC will be back to a normal working. You can use a wire in copper or an insulated wire, the most important is to make sure that you will not damage an other track.
Yes, just use a wire, or what I usually do, use the lead of a resistor. Solder first and then cut the resistor off, the resistor body makes a good grip while you're soldering.
Bryce.
It is not pretty i think it's even ugly but i've try the best i can.. :picard:
I try to use a wire and after a lot of time i understand that i'm not good to solder something lol so i made this beautiful amount of copper.. :-[
When i power up the cpc it's working so now i am waiting for my new switch button ..
[attach=2]
Its of better quality as we had seen a few weeks ago on a "repaired" monitor.
Ok, it's not going to win any soldering beauty prizes, but technically it's a good joint and will hold. That's the main thing.
Bryce.
I agree, it looks very solid! What I usually do is to keep the leads of the capacitors and things like that. Then, if I need to make a bridge, I bend them with some pliers and I solder them. There is also this trick that my uncle showed me: you use a tiny copper wire to join the two pieces of metal you want to solder (for example, the lead of the resistor and the other one) wrapping the copper around them. Finally, you solder on top of this. He is very skilled and it actually looks great, but it is not so easy :( . It is a trick that was widely used looong ago, before the PCBs (my uncle repairs really old radios and amplifiers).
Ah, the fine art of "wire-wrap". This was still popular back when I was in University (showing my age here), but it died out a long time ago. Prototype PCBs once looked like this: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/d1/Computerplatine_Wire-wrap_backplane_detail_Z80_Doppel-Europa-Format_1977.jpg (https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/d1/Computerplatine_Wire-wrap_backplane_detail_Z80_Doppel-Europa-Format_1977.jpg)
For the repair GuyOme did the normal procedure would be:
1) Clean both points you intend connecting to remove oxidation - R102 lead and the via.
2) Pre-tin (add some fresh solder) to both points.
3) Pre-tin the lead you're using as the bridge.
4) Solder by holding the bridge to the first joint and touch them with the iron.
5) Do the same for the other end.
Doing it that way means you don't have to be the proud owner of a third hand to do it well :D
Bryce.
I ordered one of these reset switches via ebay for around GBP 6 (seller-> ikonsgr74 )
Though it's WAY TOO UGLY :-X (the build quality of the actual item is worst then the pic attached which I grabbed from the listing) , the switch is working as promised so far.
(I wish it had a tiny casing )
I think I've to stick with it till I got myself a Romantic Robot MF2 ;)
Quote from: dodogildo on 14:58, 27 October 15
I ordered one of these reset switches via ebay for around GBP 6 (seller-> ikonsgr74 )
Though it's WAY TOO UGLY :-X (the build quality of the actual item is worst then the pic attached which I grabbed from the listing) , the switch is working as promised so far.
(I wish it had a tiny casing )
I think I've to stick with it till I got myself a Romantic Robot MF2 ;)
You know you can get a new clone of an MF2? Cheaper than bidding on some 30 year old hardware on Ebay.
Quote from: chinnyhill10 on 15:01, 27 October 15
You know you can get a new clone of an MF2? Cheaper than bidding on some 30 year old hardware on Ebay.
Hmm, to be honest, I'd prefer to obtain the original hardware with all the stickers etc.. But...Where can I buy the clone, and for how much, BTW ? :D
Quote from: dodogildo on 15:30, 27 October 15
Hmm, to be honest, I'd prefer to obtain the original hardware with all the stickers etc.. But...Where can I buy the clone, and for how much, BTW ? :D
Talrek on here sells them.
The originals now go for silly money and I can't see the appeal when you can have a modern equivalent for far less.
Quote from: chinnyhill10 on 15:54, 27 October 15
Talrek on here sells them.
thnx, I wrote him and asked for the details..
Talking of casing for my ugly reset button, Here's a better reset extension for C64 from eBay.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/27/76e1bcaf614b204eefe75aeda43b6489.jpg)
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That lacks a through connector, poor design. Of course it costs more, but this way you can either have a Reset button OR a floppy drive on a CPC464. 6128 would be more lucky though.
Quote from: TFM on 23:20, 27 October 15
That lacks a through connector, poor design. Of course it costs more, but this way you can either have a Reset button OR a floppy drive on a CPC464. 6128 would be more lucky though.
Haha too true
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I have one of those C64 reset switches somewhere with a through connector, if it's any use to you. I think they were sealed closed though. Mine is white/biege however.
Bryce.
Quote from: Bryce on 09:13, 28 October 15
I have one of those C64 reset switches somewhere with a through connector, if it's any use to you. I think they were sealed closed though. Mine is white/biege however.
Bryce.
I have an Epyx Fast loader invading that port and considering to install a reset switch directly on the case instead..
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Used to use a papercliptm reset 'switch' in my CPC days :)
Quote from: Gryzor on 17:03, 10 November 15
Used to use a papercliptm reset 'switch' in my CPC days :)
What an unprofessional, irresponsible, disrespect to your CP... Oh wait, so did I :)
Bryce.
Well, we were poor then, we had to improvise... =)
I vaguely remember building a 'proper ' switch (meaning: two pieces of wire soldered to the connector with a push button at the center), but I don't know if I did that for me or for someone else...