HI All
Has anybody used HDMI and an LCD monitor on a CPC 6128
I have tried 2 different SCART to HDMI converters, But i get Ghosting ??
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks Ray
Solved
Had to remove the 100MF Electrolytic and replace it with the 1.5Volt Battery Modification.
Ray
Wow, you're actually getting a decent picture then, that stays on the TV?
These SCART->HDMI converters were recently discussed in another thread here.
Generally we don't like them, because they generally don't work.
But yours does?
The one I bought (which looks 99% like the one you have) couldn't keep the image on the screen. Works fine with my Amiga though, but not with my CPC.
I ended up buying a Framemeister, and that solution is definitely awesome, but also rather expensive.
Hmm..... @Bryce (http://www.cpcwiki.eu/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=225)
Does this mean it's probably a bad idea to add the capacitor to the cable I'll be using for the Framemeister? To me it looks like it was the capacitor that caused the problem in this case?
It could be several things. If the SCART cable is too long there could be enough voltage drop that the capacitor isn't getting charged enough. It could also be that the SCART-HDMI converter has a (out of spec) low impedance input on the select pin which the capacitor couldn't handle (in which case, the battery won't last very long either).
As the capacitor needs no maintenance, I'd try it first and only resort to a battery if really needed.
Bryce.
Battery Eliminator for Scart to HDMI
Taking Note of @Bryce (http://www.cpcwiki.eu/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=225)'s Point about the Battery going flat.
I had a look inside the SCART-HDMI Converter and discovered that the DC load is 75 Ohms.
So added a resistor of between 270 - 330 Ohms 1/2 Watt from +5 Volts to pin 16.
Voila it worked NO MORE Batteries (Batteries not included).
Thanks Bryce
PS This could be done to the Other Scart - HDMi converter as well.
Ray
Very satisfactory result. Much nicer not to need a battery :) Glad I could help.
To others who want to do this mod: Any resistor between 100R and 330R should be fine, but aim for 330R to reduce the current consumption. Regarding battery usage, a CR2032 battery would have only lasted 5.5 hours! A Duracell AA would last around 125 hours.
Bryce.
Quote from: Bryce on 21:37, 10 February 16
Very satisfactory result. Much nicer not to need a battery :) Glad I could help.
Bryce, what's your comparison of this particular solution and your own adapter (which I'm using very happily for a couple of months) in terms of picture quality?
Quote from: dodogildo on 23:01, 10 February 16
Bryce, what's your comparison of this particular solution and your own adapter (which I'm using very happily for a couple of months) in terms of picture quality?
The results will be very similar. They both achieve the same, they just use different methods to get there. Any differences will mainly depend on how the TV interprets and scales the HDMI / S-Video signals and neither my adapter nor the converter above has any influence on this. The only advantage of the converter above is that it can do the up-scaling instead if your TV doesn't do it satisfactorily, however, I would expect most decent TVs to have a better up-scaler than a cheap Chinese converter.
Bryce.
I buy one of these to try it (waiting arrive).
I view these review:
Deinterlacing, Scaling, Processing: Classic videogame systems on LCD and Plasma (http://retrogaming.hazard-city.de)
I buy the hdv 85 only 23e. Just about curiosity what chips use these aparstous?.
In the other hand i read they are developing an alternative to the famous frameseiter .RetroRGB - upscalercompare (http://retrorgb.com/upscalercompare.html)
At least maybe these cheap with lucky can eliminate the diagonal lines in rgb in the snes using scart.