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avatar_Dr Tiger Ninestein

Soldering iron for game battery change/console mods?

Started by Dr Tiger Ninestein, 18:22, 05 July 16

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Dr Tiger Ninestein

I need to change some batteries in various carts and thought I'd try a couple of console mods as well. It's been about 20'years since I've used a soldering iron so I'm not too sure which one to get.


I read somewhere that a 15-20 watt iron will be fine for what I need it for but then I read elsewhere that it won't do.


Can anyone recommend one that will be suitable? Also I understand that I need to avoid lead free solder? But what size/type should I buy?


Cheers

||C|-|E||

Yup, I recently bought a little Atten soldering station from RS components that did not break the bank at all (around 40 pounds) and it is really suitable for that kind of tasks. I will check the model when I arrive home today :)

Bryce

First off, get an iron where you can control the temperature. As mentioned below, Atten is a good low-cost choice, such as this: Atten AT938D Soldering Station !!Special Promotion!!
Don't buy a no-name device, because you won't find replacement tips and tips need to be changed regularly.

Solder: For what you'll be doing you should get leaded 0.5mm solder. Lead-free solder should only be used on PCBs that were manufactured with lead-free solder and all retro gear was made with leaded solder.

Bryce.

EgoTrip

Quote from: Bryce on 21:07, 05 July 16
First off, get an iron where you can control the temperature. As mentioned below, Atten is a good low-cost choice, such as this: Atten AT938D Soldering Station !!Special Promotion!!
Don't buy a no-name device, because you won't find replacement tips and tips need to be changed regularly.

50 Euros, that'll be about £500 now.


Bryce

Yeah, the 0.5 or 0.6 of that would be fine.

Bryce.

||C|-|E||

Mine is the Atten AT60D

| RS Pro AT60D, Soldering Station, 220V, Type F - Schuko plug, Type G - British

Sadly, it seems discontinued in RS components and the one they offer as an "equivalent" option is much more expensive. However, Atten lists the AT60D ESD in their web page. Maybe is a revision of my station, they seem very similar :)

AT60D ESD Free Soldering Station_ATTEN

You may also need desoldering braid if you do not have a pistol. I like this one for the retro-mods  :)

2mm Desolder Desoldering Braid Wick Wire Mop Solder Sucker Remover Fluxed Flux |

Bryce

Quote from: ||C|-|E|| on 22:22, 05 July 16
You may also need desoldering braid if you do not have a pistol. I like this one for the retro-mods  :)

2mm Desolder Desoldering Braid Wick Wire Mop Solder Sucker Remover Fluxed Flux |

Wow, that's a tiny sample, I'd go through one of those every day :D I buy this braid: ELL FE 30-2: Entlötlitze a. Kupfer, B: 1,5mm, L: 30 Meter bei reichelt
I don't use it directly from that reel of course, I have a small handheld "feeder".

Bryce.

||C|-|E||

Hahahaha, yes, it is a bit on the tiny side  :D I use one every month, more or less, depending on my activity. The upgrade of the 464 Plus ate more than one by itself  :laugh: I think that I am going to buy one of those big rolls though, the price seems very good  :)

Bryce

Then buy yourself one of these first. You can refill it from the big reel: AREXX - AW-200 - DESOLDERING BRAID ESD SAFE 2MX1.7MM | eBay

Bryce.

||C|-|E||

That is actually a good idea  :) I have to check the prices of the big reels, anyway, because it seems that you are able to buy them very cheap in that German store, cheaper than e-bay, even including delivery cost to UK  :-\

Dr Tiger Ninestein

Thanks for the advice guys. I couldn't find the AT60D for sale anywhere so I've ordered the model that Bryce suggested. I found it on eBay for £49.99 with free shipping.


I don't think I've ever used a temperature controlled iron before, what temp do you recommend soldering at?

Bryce

For most stuff anywhere around 340°C to 360°C should be fine. If you are soldering big stuff with a large thermal mass (Heatsinks / Connectors / Connections to a large ground plane) then you should up it to around 380°C to compensate for the irons lack of thermal mass.

Bryce.

||C|-|E||

#13
I asked the same question in the past as well  :) I solder/desolder in the PCBs setting the temperature at 360-70ºC. However, sometimes you may need to increase it further if you have something big that is soldered to the ground and is connected to a big track. For cables or things that are not PCB related I may work at 380ºC or even 400ºC if they are very thick. I use quite a lot of flux, by the way, I find it really helpful to keep the temperature under control. Then, I always clean the boards with isopropanol when I am done  :)

P.D: ups, Bryce, you had already answered  :laugh:


||C|-|E||

That is the most traditional one, I would say :) The one I use is rosin flux as well but softer, like a cream, and I find it more convenient because I like to dip things on it from time to time, like the desoldering braid. However, I cannot recommend you my brand because I brought it from Spain and it is not sold in UK  :) Maybe this one could be an alternative:

50g Rosin Soldering Flux Paste Solder Welding Grease Cream for Phone PCB F7 |

You can also buy the rosin you suggested and use pure isopropanol to thin it.

Bryce

Both of those are "old hat". Get a decent Flux pen like this: FL 88: No-Clean SMD Flußmitteldispenser bei reichelt elektronik No mess, completely liquid, easy to dose. Most of the time you shouldn't need additional flux anyway, there's enough flux inside the solder.

Bryce.

Dr Tiger Ninestein

Everything ordered now. Lets hope I won't need to send my console to Bryce to fix after butchering it with my nice new soldering iron :doh:

||C|-|E||

Quote from: Bryce on 19:59, 06 July 16
Both of those are "old hat". Get a decent Flux pen like this: FL 88: No-Clean SMD Flußmitteldispenser bei reichelt elektronik No mess, completely liquid, easy to dose. Most of the time you shouldn't need additional flux anyway, there's enough flux inside the solder.

Bryce.

I am an old fart, using the same rosin since who knows when and cleaning afterwards  :laugh: :picard:

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