Just picked up this little beauty from Ireland

[Bryce]

Glueing ICs (that get no mechanical pressure) to a board is one thing, glueing a socket that gets used regularly is a completely different matter. PCBs are laminated with a very thin layer (usually green) called solder mask. You'd have to remove this completely, otherwise the mask would just give way. You'd also have to ensure that the bottom of the socket was a large smooth surface, which it isn't. I have an idea though. I'll let you know when I've tried it.

The keyboard frame is thin enough to just bend with your hands. you can leave the sledge hammer in the shed for now (until you need to "fix" a C64 )

Bryce.

[beaker]

Thanks Bryce  Ah, a little knowledge is a dangerous thing; I'd be pulling the solder mask off the whole motherboard if I'd be doing it
I'm intrigued now as to what you're planning...

No one ever lets me use my sledge hammer 

[Bryce]

So this isn't you in the video?



Bryce.

[robcfg]

Don't get me wrong, but if I have to choose between the C64 and some neanderthals banging things to pieces, I'd rather choose the C64...

[beaker]

lol, no, I prefer using much heavy duty objects. I am still saving up for the flame thrower for when I need to take down the shed 

[Bryce]

So, I had a few minutes spare this evening and got some more done. I said I'd need to do something creative with the Power socket, so I did
As you can  from the first picture, the board isn't too bad on the top, but the tracks on the bottom are completely gone, so there's no way the connector would stay there very long.. So I drilled a 1mm x 5mm channel on either side of the socket and wrapped a mini cable-tie around it. Pulled it tight and viola, the connector is rock solid on the board. The electrical connections are made with wire bridges underneath. You might also notice that I also replaced the main electrolytic capacitor behind the socket. The "butcher" had been at that too and damaged a track there, so I thought it would be best to replace it to be sure. I also bridged the broken track to the AY. Now I just need to add the internal expansion connector you wanted, but I 'm away for a few days, so that won't happen until I get back.
Oh, btw, (see picture 4) I also replaced the button on your MultiFace with a decent metal one

Bryce.

 

[beaker]

Fantastic, thanks Bryce

I didn't think of that...
I was either thinking you'd brace it somehow against the RGB connector or change the socket to one that you could drill to the case 

Safe trip

[beaker]

So took the keyboard apart to straighten it out metal shielding and... more dust!!!

[attach=2]

Use the air duster to get rid of some of it and the brush from an old camera lens cleaner to try and shift some more but there was still loads of it stuck to the membrane so had to use Isopropyl Alcohol (hopefully it didn't damage it) and gently brushed across it with the side of the Q-tips.

[attach=3]

Keys look like the keys clip into the base of the keyboard so rather than remove them all I just washed it keys down in the sink

[attach=4][attach=5]

Next I looked at the tape deck. I've ordered a new belt from the UK, but what parts do I lubricate? Also, how do I disconnect the power LED board? It's been clipped to the case and then the clips and the board have been glued into place  I want to take it all apart so I can properly fix the case and respray it...

[attach=6]

Especially with damage like this... (I think I'll try filing it back and then filling it somehow)

[attach=7]

Now, the counter with the broken button...

It looks like something has snapped off the button. When I took the counter apart the small triangular bit of plastic fell out. The actual counter works perfectly and if I pull the small bar down on the rear of the mechanism it resets to 000. Does anyone know what this button thing looks like normally when it's in one piece and is it worth repairing, or does someone have another I can buy off them, or are they fairly universal and can I steal it from any other cassette unit?

[attach=8]

Thanks in advance,

Beaker

[beaker]

Anyone know if it's safe to take the perspex/clear plastic off the cassette lid?

I bought some mystery white liquid off ebay a few years back that seems to remove small scratches and brightens up the plastic. I bought it originally to clean up a badly misted plastic rear window on the soft top roof of my MGB,

[attach=2]

It's done a grand job on the tape deck but I managed to get some behind the perspex. Is it a case of using a screwdriver on the tabs on the rear of the fascia? Has anyone done this before?

[attach=3][attach=4]

[Gryzor]

Sorry, I don't have an answer, but damn! It seems it did a great job on the plastic, and the colour is still there!!!

[00WReX]

Firstly...wow, what is that magic stuff, I need some of that.

Secondly,  I must apoligize for what may be a crap description...and includes a very crap picture, one I cut from one of my old photo's.

Anyway, I have remove the clear plastic from the tape lid on a few occasions. You just have to be a bit gentle.

Basically looking down directly onto the tape lid, if you look closely you will see two plastic tabs on the clear part that tuck under the thin dark plastic at the top of the lid (you need to bee looking into the crack where the clear window meets that dark plastic part along the top).

[attachimg=1]

As mentioned I found a picture where I had a CPC fully apart, an in one you can just make out the clear plastic part...I included this part of the picture only so you can see the plastic tabs I mentioned.

[attachimg=2]

So what I do is to get a thin but firm piece of plastic...I have used a Credit type card for this so as not to damage the CPC plastics.
Slide it between the clear window & the top plastic (I tend to go to the middle) then slide it to one of the tabs.
Then lever the plastic (credit card, etc) so that you are pushing it toward the thin plastic at the top of the lid.
Doing this gently you will cause the thin plastic strip to slightly bow out and at the same time lever the clear window up...once it is up and out slide the credit card or whatever across to the other tab and repeat the lever action (gently).

To re insert I do the same thing..

Really sorry if that is the crappiest explanation you have ever read....I know what I mean 

Anyway, be gentle with the levering action and try to find something that will be gentle on you Cassette lid plastics,

Cheers,
Shane

[Bryce]

The perspex pops out quite easily. Use a wide blade to avoid denting the plastic though.

There is a product called "Displex" available on ebay for cleaning non-touchscreen mobile phone displays, it also works great for removing these scratches: DISPLEX Kratzer Entferner Set | eBay

Bryce.

[beaker]

Cool, it popped out easily. Now it's all clean

[attach=2]

Finished filling in the solder burn on the case

[attach=3][attach=4][attach=5]
[attach=6][attach=7][attach=8]

Because the case is in pretty crap shape with deep gouges in the top and bottom of the case, bits broken off the back, glue stuck to the case, and I am planning on putting new holes in for an audio input, internal USB mouse and reset button I am currently planning on losing the decals and repainting it all gloss black after masking off the inside of the tape deck and the original label on the bottom with the serial number.

[attach=9][attach=11]

Is Milliput good for filling in the gouges?

[attach=11]

[The Last Bandit]

If they're not too deep then 'filler' primer would probably fill in most of them. Any car paint shop should have it or Halfords if you afford their prices 

[beaker]

I'll give it a go, but I think the one on the bottom may be a little too deep...

[attach=2]

[Bryce]

The mainboard is fixed, tested and has an internal expansion port added... It's also on its way back to you since this morning with your MultiFace II and the DKTronics 64K expansion. I've also thrown in a set of screws for the case, so you can close it properly when all that filling and painting is finished

Bryce.

[Gryzor]

Thanks for the pointer, Bryce, going to buy me a couple. Have you tried it?

[Bryce]

Yup, I have a tube of it at home and used it recently to remove the scratches from my TRS-80 Model 102 It shines like new now.

Bryce.

[Kris]

WHat is exactly this "filler" ? I would be interested for some of my CPCs

[Bryce]

Any general filler used for repairing cars / wood and similar. Many of these can be used for plastics too.

(In French you call it Mastic).

Example: Mastic pour plastiques 250 g

Bryce.

[Kris]

OK, I thought you were talking about a "miracle "product
Thank you

[Bryce]

The miracle depends on the person using it

Bryce.

[beaker]

Thanks Bryce 

(In French you call it Mastic).

What, like the sealant you put around baths??? 

[Gryzor]

You mean silicone?

[beaker]

Depends if you want to paint over it  I don't know, I tend to just go for a silicone sealant but I've heard of Mastic sealants before. I think Mastic sealants you can paint over?